The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

Filled him up with gas, took him for a run...to Stonehenge and back. Unfortunately, was pitch black, so couldn't get a pic

Tomorrow, maybe.

 

It's the thought that counts.

 

Stuck a tree in the back of it.



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Removed the 3 hardboard trim panels in the rear of the crewcab this morning with a view to templating them and making new ones.

Imagine my surprise - more South African dirt, stones and a chainsaw blade hiding behind them.

This red dirt / dust has literally got into every nook and cranny.

I swept and hoovered it all out. There can’t be much more surely ?

Stirlingmoz

 

Set fire too it.
Thought I would embarrass the teen picking her up from school.
Almost at school had the heating on thought what’s that funny smell!
Rear light cluster fused and was smokin. ripped all the wires out made it home got the car.

that was close! If I hadn’t had the heating on the smell may of taken longer to get to the cab.

that’s what you get for not driving it for 2weeks!

will investigate at the weekend. Bugger!

 

Took delivery of a new cab headliner

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Said headliner

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Stripped, rebuild, repaint,

Looking nice I think

 

Fitted new LED dome light in cab to replace the old LED bulb that got so hot parts desoldered themselves. This one has a heatsink...

 

Ok so bit of exploration and my led rear taillights had melted- I have had them in for a year and one side the contacts had de soldered and were black looks like i got it just at the right time. Back to normal bulbs for me !

 

Not used it in ages but found it was leaking oil. Cleaned up and found it appears to be leaking from the flywheel oil seal - a lot. So plan is engine out Monday and fix it. Seal was new lass than 2000 miles ago so I am expecting to find it damaged.

 

... or a matching score on the flywheel. Did you replace the 'O' ring as well ?

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Its a real problem with LEDs. If you have a 10 watt LED, then maybe 8 watts of it goes back into the bulb holder as conducted heat, melting wires, springs push through molten plastic etc.
With a filament bulb, the 9 watts of waste heat goes out of the lens as direct infrared radiation from the filament, and relatively little of it is conducted through the bulb holder, as the filament is attached via thin metal stalks.

Its why good quality LED headlamps have big heatsinks and need plenty of fresh air flowing round the back of the lamps to cool them.
The Bay Window's headlamp bowls are about the worst possible design, no space for heatsink, limited air flow.


Its like my dome light - the resistor in the LED festoon bulb gets so hot it desolders itself, and the contact springs oxidise with the heat. The plastic is only saved by there being a long spring between the bulb and the plastic housing. So this time I have purchased some with heatsinks fitted to the assembly. Just to keep the temperature below 183C (melting point of tin/lead solder ROHS be damned)

 

Filament bulbs - the new black.
Seriously, what a faff LEDs are.

 

They are indeed, but I've had LED festoons in my interior lights for years and they're still in one piece.

 

No score in flywheel but have dropped the oil in prep for tomorrow and it stinks of petrol and very thin. Lots of short starts to move van in and out so I’m going to look at carbs first as they look like the culprit They’ve been Topping oil up with petrol and causing too much volume in the sump. I’m going to measure the volume that’s come out to see if it was high. It looked to be just above max on the dipstick.

 

I make it worse by running a float battery charger on hookup - so the supply voltage is 13.8 volts most of the time which makes LED lights smoke faster - you have three LEDS in series with a voltage drop of about 3.5 volts each in the bulbs dropping about 10.5 volts across the three.

So with a supply of 12 volts there is only 1.5 volts across the limiting resistor.

At 13.8 volts there is now 3.3 volts across the resistor , which produces over 2x the current in the LEDS and nearly 5x the power dissipated in the resistor.

This also means that when the fridge cuts in drawing big pulses for the motor, the LEDs will noticeably flicker - I ended up putting in a big capacitor to stop the effect.

When the engine is running, the voltage is also in the 14.2 volts region .

So if you leave the door open for half an hour it all gets too hot.


The problem is not LED bulbs, you do get a lot more light for the same power or you can save power with them, its the poorly designed cheap bulb asssemblies that cause these problems.

I have LED tail lights based on quite old 0.2" clear lensed LED technology, they are barely brighter than a filament bulb but they do not get hot.

 

Fitted a scoop and fan to the 28-row oil cooler under the bus. Leading edge of the cooler tucked up as high as possible under the top hat, trailing edge just under the rear cross member. The front edge of the scoop is 30mm lower than the chassis rail – still plenty of ground clearance.

 

Would you be a dear and send me the dimensions of this? I need to make one for ours at some point.


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Took Tilly for a spin put CV 8 on tour to put a boost charge in Leisure Battery run like a dream she did, I take her for a good spin every couple of weeks to keep everything moving and not allowing bearings to seat or tyres to set