The All New, New "What have you done to your Bay today" thread.

I have trouble keeping it below 115 to be honest , and that`s just bimbling along at 55-ish for 15-20 minutes after its warmed up on the motorway . If i cane it there`s obviously a rapid increase - sit at 60 for 5 minutes and it`ll up to 125 and i`ll have to slow down to 50 for at least 20 minutes to get the temps down to under 120 .There`s been times i`ve been more than happy to see a traffic jam !
Obviously all this depends on the ambient outside temp and i`m talking above 20 degrees ...
I`ve unscrewed the bypass screw 1/2 a turn and that seemed to help on the run out yesterday . Sounds a bit odd but for some reason it was only out 3/4 of a turn - time will tell

 

What oil?

 

Whatever i say it`ll be wrong ....

As we both know i`ve been playing and found 20/50 better than 10/40 . Bit thick on startup but once above 60 degrees it`s better all round , well for the last 200 miles or so anyway .
10/40 got too hot too quickly and dropped pressure faster when it warmed up .

I reckon the bypass screw being only open 3/4 of a turn wasn`t helping and that`s down to me setting the tickover when i replaced the dizzy . Opened up the bypass before a run out yesterday it seemed to run slightly cooler even though it was quite a warm day ...

Any help ??

 

Mine’s the opposite, in that I break out in to a panicked sweat when I see a traffic jam - temp rises a degree a minute then, it seems.
If it’s rising too high whilst doing 70mph, I drop down 5mph and it makes a near instant difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I’m surprised the temp gets that high. Is this the engine Rob built for you, with a filter take-off?

 

Have you calibrated your oil temperature gauge?

Easier with two people.
Boil kettle, pour into pyrex jug or similar.
Stick van temperature sender and a normal thermometer in the water.
Compare gauge in the van temperature to 'real' thermometer temperature.
At least you will then know how 'accurate' your gauge is, although i doubt it will mean that your oil isn't getting too hot.

 

I'd forgotten you'd done that oil weight experiment.
What's your max timing?

 

Yep , i know yours is the opposite

Cheers @paulcalf , first thing i did

@zedders - 28 degrees

Re:- t`oil .

If you remember there was all sorts of weirdness going on with the pressure RISING from 40 to 60psi when i shut
off
Cured that by changing to 10/40 but that DID run hotter so tried a 50/50 mix of halford 10/40 and 20/50 which was better in every way but still got hot . Last oil change i popped in Halfords 20/50 classic and that seems ok .... so far (100 miles ..)

 

That is odd. Mine hits an “official” 3 bar when cold, then varies a bit.

Worth taking your relief valves out sometime for a quick look.

 

That was a minor annoyance , gave him an AS/AD case and got back a `B` engine , bored out to take 1600 barrels but single relief . Minor annoyance but apart from the above issues it`s been sweet , a good strong torquey engine .
Checking the relief spring/plunger was in the pending tray when eventually get the engine out , can be done in situ - i know, i know ...

 

Took the starter off, and tickled it with the wire brush. Stripped it out, cleaned it all and refitted.
That engine bay top nut, dosnt get any easier!

 

That is a bummer. Assume you’ve got a bodgy backbar bracket on the B case?

Mine’s sweet’n’torquey as well, so can’t complain. Has a voracious appetite for work.

If you ever have yours out again, I’d recommend fitting a Hoover bit to the oil cooler if it’s missing, and a velocity ring/volute on the fan shroud. Should def keep things a bit cooler. Even giving mine a caning on a hot day, my oil just about reaches 100*C.

 

Easy !!
I have a piece of wood - old 25mm blind slat - springy .
Get the offending bolt through , place springy ex-slat tight onto the bolt head and wedge the other end against whatever it wedges against . Springyness means the `D` head will now lock against the lug whilst you tighten the nut , meaning there`s no reach around dramas . Remove ex-slat and grab a cuppa ...
Thank me later - now it`s done

 

With the shiney 1641 I bought from JK, it did not want to go above 100 degrees even before I stuck the full flow filter and oil cooler back in it because it was only 4 bolts (change oil pump) .
Now if I give it a caning, foot hard on floor going up hill at 50 with a ton of junk in the back and bags on the roofrack ..
the cylinder heads get hot, but the oil sits at 102 degrees, 20 degrees above the thermostat opening in the oil loop.
Halfords Classic 20W/50 goop. 45psi at speed, 16psi idle when hot.
On the flat, I held it down to 60-65 to give it a chance to cool off. The heat soak at the services was scary, the sensors are not well placed and seem to read too cold when running , but they shot up about 40 degrees .
As far as I can tell I have exactly the correct Bosch distributor for my engine, it idles at 8 degrees and winds up to about 30 degrees.

£2600 well spent. Still leaks oil from the crank seal (enough for a drip but not a drop in level) and the rocker covers are fiddly compared with the old stock heads.

My starter motor trick is an offcut of fuel pipe wedged in the depression on top of the starter. It holds the bolt in place, and I have found it still there a year later

 

Just doing a little bit of tidying up on the bus - sprayed up the battered rusty old bumper and put a strip of reflective tape on it .

 

Dunno mate , removed and refitted by Steve .
Not suggesting he`s at fault but i had nowhere to drop or refit the engine so i just paid the bills and drove off . Didn`t fit the guages until a few months later when i was getting the odd oil light flash on tickover and wanted to know more ...
(10/40 wasn`t ideal and changing to 20/50 helped but opened up a whole new can-o-worms )
Hoover ??
Velocity stack ??
(Some PM pics would help ?)
I was even considering an oil cooler but pretty pointless as it`s not solving the issues . It`s a standard engine FFS ...

Example ..
If i set off from home it`s a bimble along the 316 , up to M3 and sit at about 55 . By the time i hit the 50 zone under the M25 (6 miles ?) it`ll be easily up to 100 and probably more a day like today ...
Out of the 50 zone and drive accordingly , trying to keep below 120* ...

 

Wood? Slats?
Easier just to wind a bit of tape around the bolt, at the D end, and tap it in when the starter is on the bench!

Thank me next time!

 

Put n/s brake and wheel back on, started the same process on the o/s, CV boots on that axel look ok, so far *phew*.

 

You know what that reminds me of.. the day my thermostat wire wedged in the cold position holding the flaps shut.. it was rubbing on the cylinder head...
130 degrees oil temperature.

I found I had to carefully tilt the thermostat bracket to get my wibbly wobbly thermostat wire to allow the flaps to move without sticking.


My stockish 1641s all tended towards 122 degrees oil temperature. Why I fitted the full flow oil filtering and cooling system on a stockish engine.

Basically I think the stock VW heads tended to have casting flash blocking airflow. And the EMPI heads that are on my new engine are much cleaner castings, less obstruction in the inlet and exhaust manifolds.

All I did was change the engine, I used exactly the same tinware, alternator, carburettor and exhaust swapping them over..