Spring plate splines

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Mini_Bungle, Jun 3, 2020.

  1. So after raising my suspension 1 outer spine i think i have gone a bit too high and want to go down about a centimetre

    So using the chart below i have 2 options ( i think )

    1/ i can lower it 1.1 cm by moving the spring plate +2 inner and -2 outer

    2/ i can reset -1 outer to where i had it before ( stock) and then
    -8 inner and +8 outer giving me a 1.1cm drop as well

    Am i reading this right ?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Back down 1 spline 60mm
    Back up 49mm is +9 -9 ?
    I'd do the +2, -2 from where you are. Easier to keep count and +1, -1 is definitely 5.5mm.
    The table makes my head spin.
     
  3. +2 inner and -2 outer

    The first move on the outer will reset it to where i started ( stock)
    So I'm really just doing
    +2 inner and -1 outer

    Looking at the chart that will put me higher than now
    1.05 higher than now
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    To go the other directions, swap the signs and you get -2, +2 :thumbsup:
     
  5. That will raise me even more , i want to go down about a centimetre
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    +2, -2 = 1.1cm
    -2, +2 = 1.1cm the other direction
    One will raise, one way will lower.
     
  7. Yes i get that , just wondering why I'm getting advice to raise more when i want to go down a bit
     
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Not advising you do anything! I thought it would be pretty obvious to a serial spline adjuster such as yourself which direction is up and which is down. I'll leave you to it.
     
    nobayinhell and snotty like this.
  9. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    I've just done mine I wanted to moderately lower my bus by 3 inches so I turned it 1 spline on the outer and ground a 10 mm notch to be on the safe side my bus is completely level and I'm happy, surely if you want to raise your bus it will be 1 spline to go to factory then 1 more to raise it
     

  10. It was stock height , i raised it 1 outer spine ( about 50mm ) but the spring plate is now riding very near to the stop
    I want to go down about a centimetre for a bit more clearance.
    This should still put me 40mm above stock
     
  11. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    Excuse my ignorance but you shouldn't be closer at the top if you are raising the bus you should have more gap, I had less because I was dropping the bus down
     
  12. Lots of room at the top it's the drop I'm lacking
     

    Attached Files:

  13. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    Sorry I misunderstood, why don't you just notch the spring plate you don't have to go mad or play about with the inner and outer splines the bolts will all be loose and you'll be able to lower or raise a bus with your eyes closed once you've got it right, I think I did mine 3 or 4 times before I was happy with the result, good luck
    Bazza
     
  14. If i notch the spring plates
    The shocks are too short
    Drive shafts are too short
    CV joints will run out of travel

    I'm really trying to not spend that sort of money at the moment
     
  15. Is it actually making contact with the stop whilst driving?

    Has anyone got a picture of how their spring plate sits in relation to the stop on a stock bus?

    I recall having to lift my plate with a jack whilst belting the splined boss to get the plate slid onto the splines but go over the stop and I put mine back on as I’d marked it up before removing.
     
  16. I'm worried about getting stuck with out the wheel being able to drop the wheel could become unloaded and the diff would send power to this unloaded wheel
     
  17. No matter how much suspension travel you have at some point off roading you will end up with a wheel in the air or even a wheel that looses traction.

    This is why people use 4wd and locking diffs

    If you do find yourself spinning a rear wheel then slightly applying the hand brake will slow the spinning wheel enough to make the diff put drive to the opposite wheel.

    At some point you will end up with both rear wheels spinning then your stuck and will need waffle boards,airing down of the tyres,digging out or towing out or a combination of those
     
    snotty and Kruger like this.
  18. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Or just be going fast enough that you manage to ride over the slippery bits.

    Anyway if you run out of downwards rear suspension travel the bus body will naturally roll over towards that wheel because of the weight distribution. The opposite front wheel will lift off the ground especially helped by the anti roll bar.

    I would try other things before cutting things that are welded into the chassis, the spring plates are far easier to replace than those lower stops.

    And if you have fitted bigger diameter tyres without a bigger engine, overheating and poor normal driving performance awaits, as you lack torque to turn the wheels.

    It will slow down more on hills going uphill even if you can roll faster down them.

    You may find a totally stock bus with knobbly tyres outperforms a bus that has been raised on the cheap. Even off road.

    I am quite surprised about what my lowered bus without anti roll bar can cope with on rough tracks.
     
    Kruger likes this.
  19. I'm a scout leader , i like to drive where the other leaders go in their Landrovers
    And then enjoy comfort while they mess around in tents and air beds
     

    Attached Files:

    Zed and Kruger like this.
  20. I’ve got huge wheels and tyres on mine and fairly standard 1800 engine, made it to the Alps and up to 5,000 feet in last summers heatwave without any issues!
     
    Mini_Bungle likes this.

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