Morning folks, It's been a looooooong time since I was last on here. I fell out of love with the bay for a couple of years. Couldn't get on top of an engine issue. Well, I'm pleased to say that I have now resolved it and took the bus camping for the first time in 2+ years earlier this week On my return, I had some naughty thoughts about trading her in for a T5, but I'm pleased to say those thoughts have now gone I'm gonna spend a little bit of money fixing a few cosmetic niggles to keep me happy. One thing I'd like to sort are some small areas of surface rust. I previously used a rust converter (can't remember what type) but it's one that turns black which can be a little unsightly. Do they do a good one that remains clear? Have seen a few, but not sure how good they are.
Used this and it works well. I paint with a suitable primer when treatment is finished Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Or this one, looks like good reviews. May have a go with it myself, no.primer https://www.toolstation.com/rustins...1f5KoOPDYaAqgDEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds#full-desc Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
That's one of the ones I looked at. Clear would be better. I'd rather not make my bus look like a Dalmatian with loads of black spots where I've applied the Kurust stuff!
No I agree its unsightly, Rustins have a good rep and feedback looks good, give it a go Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
Although I'm a bit confused as to why it says "clear" as the instructions clearly say it turns black/blue. Haha.
Lol guess that's confusing. Think they probably all do.that unless you use a rust eater as opposed to a convertor but the that will take back to bare metal Sent from my SM-G975F using Tapatalk
I assume it's clear before applying. But still, bit misleading to call it "clear". Will use the stuff I already have. I want to do the gutters so don't really care if that turns black/blue. Just need to wait for all this rain to pass.....
It’s supposed to. Most of these rust stabilisers are phosphoric acid, which turns iron oxide into stable iron phosphate (the black stuff), so it doesn’t keep growing. You’re supposed to paint over it. Slop some Waxoyl or Dynax over it if it’s just a temporary measure. It’ll need to be cut back and painted for a permanent fix (permanent = about 10 years, before it all starts again ).
When I tried the Kurust, it turned green... my bus is green but it was still unsightly Anyway I bought some Jenolite red and it seems better to me. I guess one needs both types depending on the application. I'm off now to treat the cab door window carriers now. I took the door cards off yesterday, and the insides look brand new (that's a win), but the window carriers are starting to get eaten up.
Yes, this stuff is really, really good. I patched up rust on my MG ten years ago with it and no more rust has come through in those areas. Blow it over with a rattle can of body colour - it will create a better later of protection than leaving the treated patches open to the air.
The inhibitors alone don't work, you do have to paint. There are some more industrial ones with a latex formula that turn into a rubbery waterproof coating but that's more for painting on bridges and the like and impossible to sand smooth. I tried some on my narrowboat. Usual thing has to said - it's often come through the metal from the inside to bubble up the paint so waterproofing the outside doesn't work in those cases. That's my problem at the moment.
Another plusnone for the Bilt Hamber or I've quite liked this stuff, Neutrarust 661 https://neutrarust.co.uk/ Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
I use the phosphoric acid products - the Kurust stuff is good on thin rust patches where the converter can get at all of the rust before it hardens into a kind of primer. But like all rust treatment products, you need to take off all the thick rust before trying to treat it , otherwise you treat the surface of the rust, but it keeps rotting below the rust. For deeper more permanent effect, I use something like https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hammerite-5092870-750ml-Rust-Remover/dp/B003MF6CKC This was applied over about 8 hours (not the 15 minutes it says on the pot) keeping the gel damp by adding more gel to the lower left corner of this piece of my buses deformation panel. As you can see its almost becoming bare metal, then I could have used filler primer or filler and then built it up again on the metal surface.
