So do I. Just spoken to Tayna who after hearing the symptoms of my 3.5 year old battery, diagnosed an internal fault and are despatching a new replacement 096 which will be here tomorrow. So as you predicted all will be sorted on Tuesday. That's impressive customer service by any standards. Thanks for all the advice and help and thanks to Westy77 for sleuthing the 4 year guarantee, I owe you a pint or two!
What did I say about bad luck coming in threes? Jinxed it there. Connections cleaned (they were pretty good to be fair), battery installed and voila, she starts! Ran if for a while to help recharge the battery and to check the fuel pump was getting fuel. Came out to use it yesterday. First turn of the key, ignition warning lights on, fuel pump running, turn key and diddly. Nothing not even a clunk from the starter, just dimmed ignition lights. May have time to look later today so will check the connections first but initial thoughts are starter solenoid? Are they serviceable?
The wire from the ignition switch has a spade connector on the solenoid. Did you clean the connections on the solenoid? If you have a meter, you could check for volts at the spade end with the ignition switched on. If no volts then the problem is further back, maybe the ignition switch itself or the wiring. I remember someone on here found the wire connection on the spade itself had corroded but wasn't obvious. If volts are good at the spade, then its likely the solenoid or starter itself or the braided wire from the solenoid to starter is corroded away (mine did that). Meters are cheap and worth having, get one if you can. As its a new battery, did you fully charge it with an external charger before putting it in the van?
Thanks for those suggestions mgbman. No the solenoid connections weren't cleaned, will be now. Battery posts, earth and gearbox earth strap were cleaned. I have an analogue meter so will check as you suggest - electrics are not my strong point. Didn't know about the corroded wire on a spade so will have a shufty at the condition on mine. Didn't charge the battery as it was showing 12.4 volts when installed and didn't think it needed it. Is it worth conditioning with a CTEK or conventional charging now?
12.4 volts is on the low side. needs charging up to maximum, should get 12.8 . New batteries may sit on shelves for a while and lose a bit of charge. Those solenoid connections sit under the van corroding away out of sight until one day....
Right I'll check it and charge it up to 12.8. The starter was allegedly reconditioned a couple of years ago so we'll see what those terminals look like when I get under it.
What was the voltage at the battery? If it was significantly lower than when you installed it check for items that will discharge it – alarm, radio memory or interior lights for instance.The battery could also discharge through a faulty alternator.
Didn't actually check the voltage after it didn't start but the alternator was charging when it last ran. I don't think it's the battery as when the ignition key was returned to its first position, the ignition warning light returned to its normal brilliance. When I get it going I'll test the alternator for output just to make sure it's not faulty. Gut instinct is the starter solenoid, we shall see.
If the ign/oil lights only dim significantly when in the cranking position it indicates a large volt drop either due to battery charge or condition or poor continuity connection etc. Check the battery voltage with the key in the crank position. Only other thing is a defective starter or solenoid. Either open circuit or short circuit drawing excessive current from the battery. A new battery may have been stood on the shelf a while & require a top up charge but it’s Ampere hour capacity should be good enough to spin the engine. As already said the multi meter is your friend
I don’t think it’s the battery either, or the alternator. I think there is a poor connection at the battery or starter solenoid – the thick cables – or somewhere between the solenoid, the ignition switch and back to the solenoid - the thin cables. Or a faulty ignition switch. Did you confirm if there is a hot start relay (same as hard start relay) fitted?
First of all get a multi meter, they are cheap and simple to use and a simple test for volts on the solenoid spade connector with ignition on would show if power is getting to the solenoid, should be same volts as battery or a little less. When cleaning the solenoid connections, make sure also to clean the thick cable end to bright metal.
Another thing you can try is give the cables at the starter a good tug. sometimes they look good but the joint can go dry.
had a digital multimeter but it started with random readings and changing its battery didn't make any difference so will have to break out my old Gunson's analogue one. Battery is now on charge. Will do as you suggest and check the voltage whilst cranking. I'm thinking solenoid is the culprit. The thick cable from the positive battery post looks original so maybe time it's replaced. I'll need to check all the wiring from ignition switch to starter . Yes there is a hot/hard start relay fitted. I have a spare so will try that too. I'll do one thing at a time so if something works I'll know that's been the culprit! Will do. Quite looking forward to sorting this. Thanks for all the advice - hope that hasn't jinxed it again
If you do this dont forget to disconnect the battery or you may end with scraping a bare thick positive wire across an earth.. And with digital multimeters, cheap ones can sometimes be persuaded to work by rotating the dial several tines to wipe the switch contacts clean. Or just buy another one...
Good advice unless I want my hair to stand on end! Didn't know cheap multimeters can be resurrected so will do as you suggest and see what happens. It was a very cheap one from Amazon I think. Went out yesterday to check how the battery was doing as it had been on charge (well being conditioned by a CTEK) for 24 hours. Disappointingly it showed only 12.5 volts. Needless to say it didn't start but there was a faint rattle from the starter so I jumped it from another battery and it started first time. New battery now being charged with a proper battery charger so we'll see what happens today. Connectors/connections, cables are all going to be checked, cleaned, repaired or replaced, I want to sort this and have it starting properly now the cold weather is here. The battery has a decent CCA so it should start far more easily than it does at the moment.
I had the same issues and replaced battery, thick cable to solenoid, gearbox earth strap, cleaned all wiring connections. Problem solved. Now charge battery regularly with proper charger. Now starts first time every time. If you are not using the van, disconnect the battery or install a battery isolator switch. Remember if you are under the van, wear eye protection as bits of dirt or rust seem to fall at random.
