roverv8

Discussion in 'Introduce Yourselves' started by roverbay, Mar 21, 2013.

  1. G'day all. spent some time sorting out the speedo drive it runs of the Nissan transfer case. I have taken the electronic drive out of the Toyota gearbox it is the electronic unit I have to have the Nissan dive shaft turned down 0.025 mm to fit in the Toyota unit the shafts are the same length just need to enlarges the slot to fit onto Toyota internal

    ernie

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    Last edited: Sep 28, 2014
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  2. G'day all. How are thing with you all over there. I have sorted out another mechanical issue. The McLeod concentric bearing face was wrong for the Daihatsu p/plate fingers so this is what i come up with after spending a lot of time going through parts books. to use a different unit would have had to have a sleeve to fit the unit so had a sleeve made to press onto the McLeod bearing to suit the job. ECLECTIC takes up a lot of time sorting out something to be reliable & safe to use. Here's some pics of the work involved
    ernie

    This is the original McLeod unit note flat face
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    this is the Daihatsu unit
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  3. G'day all. Where ever you are. I have sorted another mechanical issue with the thrust bearing I'm using. I had to have a sleeve made up to suit the Daihatsu p/plate design
    the McLeod unit has a flat face & I need a curved face so after a lot of research in parts books this is what I decided on.
    This is the McLeod unit note flat face
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    this is the face of sleeve
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    this is the rear of it.
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    this prior to being pressed togethe. The unit behind it is the Daihatsu bearing
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    As you see there is always a way around an problem just need to have a cup of tea while sitting looking at how to solve it. Works for me
    the Yanks didn't know what they were doing when they through all that tea into Boston harbour.
    hope your enjoying the build
    ernie
     
  4. G'dy all. I had a good day the Engineer okayed the modified front beam Daewoo rack & pinion & rodeo spindles for the 4x4 conversion. over here we have have each modification inspected before we can proceed with fitting it so thats done next is the rear diff mounting set up but he just want photo's of that easy 1. now that the front is approved i can go ahead & build proper 4x4 midmount v8 powered kombi using Vw suspension instead of sitting it on a damn useless chassis out of some crap 4x4

    ernie
     
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  5. G'day all. It's been awhile. so just a couple of pics for now the left front driveshaft. It's made up of the outer CV spline off the rodeo & the inner diff flange off the commodore IRS diff. & I changed the steering rack over to an Audi unit lighter smaller easier to fit

    the left drive shaft [​IMG]

    the Audi rack [​IMG]

    these are the Daewoo steering arms with the rubber bushed ends cut off & thread to take early model Astra tierods

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    Last edited: Dec 8, 2015
    aussie bay likes this.
  6. Merlin Cat

    Merlin Cat Moderator

    Blimey! Nice work. I'm super impressed with people who can do all these vehicle mods. It's a lot if information to learn and then be able to put into practice. I can't really understand a lot of it but I'm looking fwd to seeing the finished job :)
     
  7. Good evening Merlin Cat. I just sit & see what I need to fit where then go looking at cars yards with a tape measure & pen & paper for different ideas. Plus a lot of imagination.
     
  8. G'day all. I started the pedal conversion to E30 BMW today. began by stripping out the dash assembly along with the handbrake lever steering column steering box accelerator pedal & linkages. I'm using a Toyota Tarago accelerator pedal mounted to the inner kick panel area. The pedals will hang off a frame made up of 5cm x 5cm curved tube I paid $2.00 each for them. By using the BMW pedal assembly it will put the mastercylinder behind the glove box to save space I'm using a hydrobooster run of the Astra powersteering pump.

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    Happy with the condition of the floor & behind the dash

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    Last edited: Jan 10, 2016
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  9. Hi Ernie , just read through the whole thread, some great work going on, I'm looking forward to following your progress :thumbsup: Nick.
     
  10. thanks for looking Nick. I hope to get more done in the next few months now the home reno's are done
     
  11. Just stumbled across the thread @roverv8 really unbelievable stuff you are doing and your mix and match approach for the results you're getting is mighty!

    Great work.

    Heading over to Brisbane in April and bringing my tintop with me, hopefully will get to see the beaut for real one day!
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2016
    roverbay likes this.
  12. G'day Wonty more than happy to have a meet up. google Nambour & the sunshine coast to see where I'm at I n relation to brissie
     
  13. G'day all. I have had a change in direction with the pedal assemblies. I'm retaining the standard kombi units but relocating the booster mastercylinder to the front of the beam. I had to move the ball joints down in the lower arms. this gave more clearance between the ball joint & the driveshafts. I also have to move the lower front shock absorber mount forward 5cms to clear the shafts. A lot of thinking how to do the shocks. I made a simple spacer out of 5cm x5 cm tube. The problem I had was the shock mounting stud is shorter than thee tube is wide so no way of fitting a nut. The solution was a tube nut HA HA. nothing like what I needed so looking for a solution to it I found a cyclone rod nut in the shed from the extension id did on the bathroom. The thread was slightly different. I ran 12mm x 1.05 tap through it. It cleaned more that it cut thread. I then screwed a bolt in with a lock nut put it in the bench drill & ground it down using a 4inch grinder the cut it down to length with a hacksaw & file then emery tape finish

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    this is the shock stud showing how short it is

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    this is simple spacer to move the shock forward

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    this is the cyclone nut & the 1st attempt. To rough to use

    [​IMG]Starting the process in the drill press

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    the 2nd nut lot better finish on this one

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    Last edited: Feb 13, 2016
    Buddy Hawks likes this.
  14. datson L18 motor ... bonkers
     
  15. G'day Mike Datsun l18 motor ?
     
  16. G'day all. spent some time lifting the front diff into place. I will only need a 2 piece tailshaft. the may need to lift the engine transmissions up by an inch.the halfshafts line up spot on between the diff & the spindles The front mount is standard Commodore unit turned over & sits on the simple rectangle tube that sits down over the beam tube. Once I have it all spot welded in it's off to the welder to have it finished. Now to fit the steering I have change direction by using a smaller unit out of an Audi. Note the position of the bottom of the diff in line with the beam tube almost 100% ground clearance. Having not driven a bay for several years I had forgotten how well laid out the pedals were so I going to retain them. I have to relocate the Mastercylinder's to in front of the beam & position them to clear the steering shaft

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    Last edited: Feb 19, 2016
    Buddy Hawks likes this.
  17. G'day all. I have spent some time building the transmission tunnel & the front engine box cover to seal the area between the seat walls & the engine box. The tunnel had to be made in 2 pieces then screwed to holt it insitu for welding. It was a bit of figuring hoe to get the curve to clear the trans & taper down to the rear It starts at 9cms & goes down to 7cms the series of pics will show the work involved for a back yarder & what you can achieve with some odd tools & a trailer top frame. I started the fold by jacking up the impreza & placed a piece of 4 x4 timber under both sides & let the jack down then bounced it to settle into the bend. Then wrapped it with a strap around a tyre & rim & progressively pulled it in along with a rubber mallet. then set it up on the frame to get the bends for the sides. the next job was the rear section over the back of the floor thai had to have 3 shapes in it a curve on the front to match the front section flat at the top for the original floor shape & tapered on the sides.

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    basic curves & sides folded
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    The screws will be taken out & holes welded up after the join is welded
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    This is the front cover being formed. it has a fold to let the top edge fold back at the same angle as the walk through walls. then there were 2 different angled curves to be rolled into the sides to go around behind the wall to seal the front to the box.

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    getting the top curve to taper
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    Sitting insitu the sides have to cut back & the cuts welded then linished smooth

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    viewed from the front
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    Last edited: May 4, 2016
    Buddy Hawks likes this.
  18. enjoying the thread - good build!
     
  19. now for more. This is a long range Range Rover Tank I cut & turned it to allow it to fit up into the original tank shelf. by doing this I can run a V8 commodore radiator behind the engine lid. the lid will open with 2 electric actuators to allow air flow in traffic I have to sot out how to open & close it with the fans. I have to put a swirl pot in it before its welded up. This is where I'm up to as of today.
    [​IMG] Having changed to Audi power rack I had this made up to support it off the beam tubes on the right side

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    simple set up I have linished it to clean up the cuts once I have it in place I can determine the final position for the front diff centre

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    these are the tyres for street running small diameter but should be good on road. The rims cost me the equivalent of about a pound each then I git them blasted zinc coated & powder coated for a rat roof rack & the floor seat tracks for the drivers seat. bargain there.

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    This is the box to house the ECU & fuse boxes it will mount to the top section of the engine box. the power system will have plugs to allow them to be removed from the car while attached to the engine box. with a custom extension lead setup I will be able to run the engine with the covers removed

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    Now for the scary part the engine harness. started to do the joins & found it to be a really simple set up. Once this is finalised I will start the lights wipers heater & ancillaries harness & the charging system dual battery harness.

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    The fresh air induction will be via a reversed plenum & exit out through the engine box into another box housing. A pod filter & air flow meter then connect to a scoop mounted behind the right hand door. This will also blow cold air into the engine box & will have a separator panel between the filter & the engine box air intake

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    side scoop it will have a series of holes on the bottom rear edge to allow water to run out.

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    Last edited: May 4, 2016
    Buddy Hawks likes this.
  20. G'day all. been doing a little on the front end & locating the transfercase onto the original Nissan chassis to case mounting brackets. the intermediate shaft ends up 14cms long. I have changed the cv idea to a double unijoint set up. I still have to make 3 gussets to ad strength to the bracket support.

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    Last edited: Jul 29, 2016
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