Replacement Engine Running Rough

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Bay Dreamer, Sep 18, 2022.

  1. It's the generic one for an '034 I've always used. 9 might might be fine. "2" turns on "123Spark" (referred to somewhere in their docs). Only available with curve 0.
     
  2. I don’t think they have a vacuum canister as such just a little stub for the vac pipe
    On a 123 it will use electronics to sense the vacuum instead of a vac can to manually move the points
    (Edit
    oops missed the previous replies)
     
  3. Keep up at the back ;)!
     
  4. It’s been a long day
     
    snotty likes this.
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Interesting, I think you should find it and show us if you can, I've never seen mention of it other than by yourself. :thumbsup:
    If you follow my link for the curves, the one you use is virtually identical, just comes in 100rpm sooner and advances an extra degree and is recommended for the smaller single port engines. The vac is identical. But no mention of double sparking, maybe that's something earlier 123's did that was abandoned and so maybe also your curve recommendations are out of date?
     
  6. So should I go for setting 9?

    Also when you push the distributor body down into the hole it seems to push itself up out of the hole a little bit again.

    I am not sure if I am supposed to hold it firmly into the hole as far as it will go and tighten clamp or let it push out the hole as far as it wants and then clamp it. I don’t want to damage this thing either way.
     
  7. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    Instructions a bit jibberish but I presume the 2/1600 and 2/1700 means type 2 bay and 1700cc etc. looks like I’ve had mine on zero curve as it says ‘fits all’, but I’m going to turn it to curve 9 now I’ve seen this
     

    Attached Files:

    Zed likes this.
  8. I'll have a look. They're the earlier instructions, but I can't think why they would change the curves.
     
    Little Nellie likes this.
  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    What I did was push it right down, let it spring up about 1mm or a little more and clamp it there. You don't want it hard bottomed out for sure, but you do want the dog nicely engaged into the drive. And yes, I'd choose number 9.
     
    snotty likes this.
  10. And watch out for dodgy distributor caps, my 123 went back to VWJim who after testing for a few days says it was a dodgy contact through the main in HT..... I've had the little carbon bit fall out on at least two caps in that couple of years too.

    My new one was a Tune one and he's put a curve on that worked on his 1600 that I can play with maybe so can't comment on that for yours but on the tintop curve 2 works just fine on a type 4 engine on an old 123.
     
    lhu1281 likes this.
  11. Can someone please explain to me how I should be timing the 123 distributor becaise I am now confused.

    I static timed it with the LED as per instructions then had to adjust slightly once running at idle as it was 10 degrees not 7.5 BTC. Then I tried to timing at over 3,000 rpm and somehow around 3,400-3,500 it is at 30 degrees and 8 degrees at idle.

    If I go to 3,600 it advances further though. When I look at the instructions it says maximum advance at 3,800 and 23 degrees.

    So what rpm should I be revving to and how many degrees should I be at. So confused now.
     
  12. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    I understand that you disconnect and plug the vacuum. Then rev the engine high like you have been doing but limit the advance to 28 by turning your 123. Should be adjusted so that no matter how high you rev, your advance will max out at 28 degrees.

    bolt the 123 secure and reconnect the vacuum

    Idle may change but that’s not the primary concern
     
    snotty likes this.
  13. Plug any vacuum port on the carb. Set the timing statically to 7.5* with the internal LED. Rev it up and check that advance stops at 28-30*. Tweak if necessary. Ignore what the revs are - you're just checking that max advance actually stops at some point. Idle advance will likely end up at about 10*, but it's not really that important.
     
  14. Here you go. Instructions for 1st gen 123. Curve 0 replicates the Mexican '034 I had before and it's just fine. Advances a bit earlier. Current curves likely to be the same - can't see any reason why they would change them.

    The "123Spark" bit was a bit vague, but one of their long-suffering dealers on the 123 forum stated that it will double-spark on that setting (hence the tacho warning). Maybe on more recent ones they've deleted that feature. I've paid for two sparks, so I'm going to bloody well use them (in my Yorkshire voice).

    https://www.paruzzi.com/pdf/2245.pdf
     
    Valveandy, Lasty and Zed like this.
  15. This is the instructions and why it is confusing me.

    CDD93168-FA61-450A-A6A4-8BDE8663C266.jpeg
     

    Attached Files:

  16. That's for a Volvo?
     
    theBusmonkey and Little Nellie like this.
  17. Sorry the wind might have turned page as I was photographing.

    This is it.

    C8258062-4FEF-440E-95E4-2E393DCFC46E.jpeg
     
    Ozziedog and CollyP like this.
  18. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter


    2/1700 type 2 with 1700 engine. So all type 2 bays curve 9?. But zero says replaced 034 so :beer:

    could be talking out of my exhaust pipe
     
  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Excuse my ignorance but what is an 034 distributor?
    The only one I see here is a Bosch replacement for a 1970 autostick beetle. Maybe I'm missing something?
    https://oldvolkshome.wetwesties.org/ovhignbo.htm
     
  20. Little Nellie

    Little Nellie Supporter

    I thought it was the code for a Bosch Svda like below?

    757E2562-631E-4F7A-A48A-9A8BF3A04141.png
     
    Zed likes this.

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