Replacement Engine Running Rough

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Bay Dreamer, Sep 18, 2022.

  1. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Hard to beat a 123
     
  2. Vacuum model or non-vacuum model?
     
  3. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Vacuum! @snotty can tell you which one to buy.
     
  4. Gooders, Little Nellie and snotty like this.
  5. although overkill on a boggo 1600 , you’ll just use the standard curve . An OG SVDA is all you need
     
  6. I beg to differ. The spark balancing alone is worth paying for.
     
  7. Did you need to fit a different clamp or spacer to your Type 1 engine to fit it?
     
  8. Stock clamp and no spacer, it's been fine for 12 years. But, get a spacer if you like. Just fit it and forget it.

    Note that it's not going to fix any other problems elsewhere...
     
    Zed likes this.
  9. which I get . But the 123 can be as wizzo and high tech as it likes but it’s still driven of a worn ass 40 YO brass crank gear .. They are probably the best you can buy , I’ve run OG with pertonix for donkeys faultlessly
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Me too which is great if you've got one, but blind buying old distributors is a mugs game and a properly refurbished one is as costly as a 123 these days.
     
    paradox and Little Nellie like this.
  11. I have ordered a 123 distributor with vacuum advance so I will see how that goes once it has arrived.
     
    snotty, mikedjames and paradox like this.
  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    The wear doesnt matter so much if the distributor has a points follower dragging on the shaft, it will hold the gear in mesh at one end of the backlash.

    Fit electronic ignition or a 123 and watch the backlash potentially become noticeable, as the timing slops around as the engine speeds up and slows down, added to a possible missing distributor drive spring and it may hunt at idle...
     
  13. So I ordered the 123 ignition and after paying £327 and it arriving today I find it gas no vacuum can with the distributor. I only have my old 009 distributor.

    JK sell one for 73’ onwards and that is on back order so I’m trying to work out what to do?
     
  14. Heritage sell two. One for 73’ onwards and one for 70-72’. I would imagine these years are meaningless for a 123 distributor. Can anyone tell me what I need. Also the vacuum unit alone is £35. Is it worth getting a full vacuum distributor from GSF for £30.

    I don’t know what vacuum I need and how to identify it.
     
  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Read the instructions?, there is no mechanical can, it's electronic, connect to the nipple on the side.
     
    paradox, Little Nellie and snotty like this.
  16. There is no can. The 123 uses a vacuum transducer like modern engine ECUs. Just connect up the vacuum pipe.
     
    Little Nellie likes this.
  17. Yes, sorry I just opened the box saw it in the packaging and had a panic moment. I had to go out before having a chance to open it and look at the instructions.
     
    Zed likes this.
  18. I am trying to find out what the correct setting is for the distributor now. Most threads people are suggesting setting 9 ?

    My 1600cc type 1 engine has an AD engine code.
     
  19. Curve 0, or curve 2 if you want it to double spark (might send your tach a bit crazy if you've got one).
     
  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    9 looks to be the recommended one?
    https://123ignition.com/product/vw-4-r/

    Where did you get the double spark info?
     

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