Pedal drops to floor

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Spacecowboyuk, Aug 12, 2020.

  1. Turns out I didn't box it away it was still 'hung up there'. Too dark to do anything now but I have retrieved the length of tube (whatever it's called) off the original linkage/accelerator cable to connect it back to.
     
    Zed likes this.
  2. Looks like the only issue is the spring in the accelerator pedal which has lost the horizontal part which sits flat against the floor through rust.

    On the plus side the Bus has fired up nicely on its new carb and linkage. It's running rich so I still need to tune it and, after tracing a vacuum leak she is running steady. Just need to drill and tap the air filter for breather to reconnect up to. What shall I connect the fuel tank evap line to?
     
  3. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    The other air filter.
     
    snotty likes this.
  4. Pedal is all sorted now and floor is protected.

    Carbs still running rich I think. Is it still possible to drive like this as I need to make one journey or do I need to get it all spot on?
     
  5. Betty the Bay

    Betty the Bay Supporter

    Better rich than lean, a "bit" rich is supposed to help with the cooling ( according to my "expert ".
     
  6. A bit rich OR a bit lean and the cylinder will run cooler than at perfect A/F mixture.
    But, too much in either direction and damage is done, albeit for different reasons.
     
    Betty the Bay likes this.
  7. Hmm this is what I'm worried about
     
  8. Could it be the engine oil? It was changed about 18 months or so ago and has done probably 100 miles. Wonder if its moisture, for example. I dunno.
     
  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It'll start easy with big idles so yes that's a sign.
    Is this a way out westie supply?
     
  10. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    If you drive it gently to get wherever and your plugs dont soot up, you will get there. Just dont cruise at 65 just yet.

    Oil picks up moisture from running the engine cold for a long time, the byproducts of the combustion end up contaminating it. If you have barely run the engine then the oil should be good.

    After a trip to the rolling road , and paying the bill for a single tune-up, you may understand why buying and fitting an AFR meter can be better value for money.
     
    Coda likes this.
  11. Not as such. I bought all the parts and followed his guide for rejecting etc. I stripped them down, cleaned them and put it all together. Just struggling with the tuning.

    I'm running 165 mains, 185 air, 55 idle, F6 emulsions, 150 float jets.
     
  12. Ill run it to the chinese and back and see how it goes. Sposed to be doing 65 tomorrow...

    Oil looks brand new in there.
     
  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Nothing way out there. Any other carbs I'd say your mains are massive but ICTs seem to end up that way.
     
    Spacecowboyuk likes this.
  14. First drive out and I can see tell idle is way too high still and it doesn't really want to go above 30 right now
     
  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    First set the timing. Done that?
    Set the idle speed and balance with the throttle stops. It must be fully warmed up but if you can go round it all again later.
    Set the idle mixtures.
    Now hopefully it's idling at the right speed warmed up. Check the timing again, adjust as needed, go round all the above again. Round and round the loop until timing, idle speed/balance and mix are all good.

    Apply a few revs and hold. If it pops (it won't!) the idles are too small. Fit bigger onrs, reset idle mix.

    At this point a good test is 25mph steady speed in 3rd - let it settle, try not to move the pedal. Pop pop? Need bigger idle. No pop, try a smaller idle. Repeat until it pops and farts then back up to the smallest size than ran. Reset idle mix EVERY TIME you make ANY adjustment to carbs or timing.

    Mains - what is it stopping you going faster i.e. what symptoms when you try?
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2020
    Spacecowboyuk and Coda like this.
  16. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    For limited top speed: with the engine stopped, put a brick on the accelerator pedal so its wedged to the floor, go round the back and see where that leaves the carburettor spindles. If they havent rotated to the end stop or nearly, either tighten the accelerator cable some more or get an extension on the lever under the cab floor..
    This is assuming its set for 28 degrees BTDC timing at high revs too..
     
    Spacecowboyuk likes this.
  17. Thanks both. I've been thinking about this all night and I think I've got my adjustments out of whack. Screwing in when I should have been screwing out etc. That's what's you get for rushing.

    I will check the movement of pedal correlating to the cable to seeing I get WOT.

    I'll reset the lot and run through all this again now and let you know outcome.

    EDIT: forgot to add, can timing go out on its own? @1973daisey and I set this a couple of years ago.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2020
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    The more times you go through it the easier it gets.
     
  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Do you have a snail air flow thing?
     
  20. Idle is under control. It was the linkage binding up.

    Just not running right. Took her around the block and I am able to pull to just above 60KPH (LHD German bus) and thats it. Got full travel on linkage.

    Getting a small amount of grey smoke out the exhaust now every now and then so I think I'll leave it at home and take the other car to the coast instead. Probably timing but I dont have a tach. Sigh.
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2020

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