Outer CV boot

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by AndyC, Aug 1, 2021.

  1. Surely if it's on farcebook it's gospel ??


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  2. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    Lol. It actually may be a thing @Lasty but I think the axles may be different diameter. It's possibly what are being sold as 'more durable' but need a sleeve on the driveshaft to fit properly.
    Like that...:thinking: I fitted those boots last year. Definitely not meant for T2/3 without that mod. But they work. The concertina is different to the GKN one above as well.
    IMG_20210806_122640_compress99.jpg
     
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  3. Quick look on eBay and the Tiguan all space boot looks similar
    I wonder if the dimensions and pcd etc are available to look up somewhere
    [​IMG]
     
  4. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    Para,haven't got time to look now, but this is the alternative kit BW sell. Ignore their label, you may be able to reference the box part number?
    IMG_20210806_141946_compress48.jpg
    IMG_20210806_142016_compress28.jpg
    I think that sleeve may be their own addition. Not expensive to buy from them TBH. I think I would have done a price comparison at the time.
     
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  5. Hey I'm replacing 4 CV joints and Brickwerks are out of stock. Should I risk their alternative range or has anyone had good experience with SKF? They are listed on Custom & Commercial as having 2 year warranty with unlimited mileage which suggests a bit of durability. They're out of stock but I've found them elsewhere. I wondered if anyone had first hand experience of them?

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  6. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

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  7. Sorry @77 Westy I should've been clearer. I'm looking to replace the whole thing not just the boot.

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  8. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    Try autodoc. They do stock the GKN/Lobro joints. I'd honestly try and get those if you can.
    That being said, SKF are a manufacturer and whilst I'm not aware they were an OEM for CV joints specifically they still should be of reasonable enough quality to give you good life:thumbsup:
    As above, the rubber boots from whoever are all now of a quality that we just have to lower our expectations:rolleyes: Tis what it is...

    Edit, be aware there are counterfeits out there...who'd have thought...and iirc SKF in particular have a web page where they offer advice on how to spot that their bearing products are genuine.
     
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  9. Why replace the whole thing? Is the joint itself worn?
     
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  10. I think it is worn yes. When I hold the arm with one hand and twist the joint with the other I've got that click-clack movement.
    It was suggested on another thread that it was worth replacing at that point and given my hideously unsuccessful 'wait and see' policy with my gearbox whine I thought I might get ahead of this one.

    Note: Apologies for hijacking the replacement boot thread but in my defence I only intended to stay for 25 minutes and thought it was a BYO CVJ thread.

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  11. I'd be tempted to re-grease it and see if it still clacks, others might suggest different, but a packet of grease won't break your bank account.
     
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  12. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    If there's metal flaking in the ball races then they won't get any better, but you're right if after cleaning there are just polished marks where the balls run they'll be good to go again.
     
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  13. ^this. Always worth inspecting first. I wonder how many perfectly good good CV joints end up in the bin.
     
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  14. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Definitely take a look at the balls and the slots. If the balls look rough (unlikely) or the races are badly grooved then there is a problem.

    Another life extending trick is to put the axles back on the opposite sides - then the wear starts in a different pattern.
     
  15. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    @davidoft sent me this a couple of weeks ago. It illustrates that balls do degrade.
    In his words...'poopy ball from a poopy joint on the left'.
    You've just got to know what you're looking at ;)
    As already said, it's more likely to be obvious on the races:thumbsup:
    SAVE_20220119_214216.jpg
     
  16. Chrisd

    Chrisd Supporter

    On the subject of CV boots, I've got one boot with a small split at the wheel end and was wondering if you have to take the arm off completely or can you just do the wheel side only? Everything I've read suggests taking the whole arm off from both sides, but I thought I'd ask first before tackling the boot replacement.
     
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  17. I would just take the whole driveshaft off. Only a bit of extra spannering.
     
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  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    If you just undo the wheel one two things happen.
    It gets trapped in the cast housing and the grease gets full of crud.
    You have to take the whole drive shaft off.
    I recommend undo the gearbox end first for the above reason and also the wheel is your spannering friend here.
    Sandwich bag each end is a top tip.
     
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  19. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    Take the whole driveshaft off. It’s a messy and fiddly enough job as it is, trying to do it while lying on your back under the van will end in tears.


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  20. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Not the dripping of tears but the dull plop of grease coated ball bearings dropping onto the floor.
     
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