No oil pressure on newly rebuilt CJ engine

Or pick up tube issue ?

 

Good point.

 

That’s a possibility, but after 2k miles?

 

How did you run in the engine? When you changed the oil did you remove/check the strainer? A little worrying that you had to adjust the valve clearance twice in 2k miles – has the engine overheated?

 

If you take the tin off in front of the fan & remove the fan you have a bit more room from the top to ease the pump out. Ease it bit by bit with both lugs.
Its a good idea to loosen the case bolts above & below the pump also to make it easier to get out/in.

 

I did about 400 miles at mainly low speeds not exceeding 50 mph.
Yes checked the strainer each time I’ve replaced the oil.
Valve clearances were okay each time, the clearances hadn’t changed dramatically at all, It was just me being pedantic making sure they were set right to the 0.15mm. Being new to the aircooled scene I thought this was a must each time before a long trip.

 

My view is leave it alone and let the engine builder sort it as the engine is under warranty.

 

No harm in chattimg with the builder and asking if there's anything you could check yourself with his approval. Engine builders liked me because I would do this - saves them a job and saved me a lot of messing abour with engines and pallets.

 

If there was a new cam you should have run it in at about 2500 revs for 20 minutes, then change the oil and just drive the bus normally. Driving at low speed/revs does more harm than good.
I wouldn’t touch the strainer; if the cover bolt is overtightened the centre cam bearing saddle can be damaged – a major flaw in the type 4 engine design.
I check valve clearances once a year – they haven’t needed to be adjusted. But no harm done to check them more often of course and certainly not a reason for lost oil pressure.
Time for the engine builder to sort it but please let us know what is found – it’s an interesting one.

 

Thank you zedders, I will speak to them again Monday see if I can get some authorisation. I’ll been happy to carry out the work just to learn more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

There should of been a new cam, I wasn’t instructed by the builder to do this, I was sent videos of it running on there bench test, perhaps they do it on site before the engine is shipped.

The cover bolt for which part sorry? The pump?

More questions to ask Monday morning,
When I have more information I’ll get back to you.

Thanks for your comments 77 Westy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Once when I was younger and interested in how things happen I was putting a T4 back together after splitting the case to replace the oil pickup o-ring which had a big kink in it. So I put it together with the tube hanging on the bolt and found there was enough free play on the pickup to push the o-ring through and right out of the hole it seals in. I had to dismantle it again to reseat the o-ring.

If I was the builder and you'd been repeatedly and pointlessly removing the strainer plate and caused the problem I might not be best chuffed. A warrenty kind of makes that stuff owned by the builder. You mess about without prior discussion with the builder, the warrenty is understandably void.

 

It sounds like they probably ran in the cam, who are ‘they’ by the way?

The nut in the oil strainer cover is the one not to touch. There is no need to look at the strainer and if the bolt is overtightened and the engine case is broken, you’ll wish you’d left it alone.

This can happen.

 

So I am a little confused, I thought you should check the strainer for any contamination in the engine
when you replace the oil + filter, or have a made that up?

When I put it back on I’d always use the torque setting that it states in the Bentley book.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

What would it catch in a new engine that has a proper oil filter? Answer : large broken bits of engine.

The idea being that if disaster strikes, it may be less expensive if a chunk doesn't get sucked into the oil pump and jam it.

For type-1 engines without an aftermarket filter and oil drain in the centre of the strainer plate you have to remove it to change the oil.

The only time I would remove a strainer from a type-4 would be if I had reason to expect it had caught chunks of engine or it was leaking.

 

Okay that makes sense fair enough, I was just being way over cautious then.
I really hope that by using correct torque settings I shouldn’t have anything to worry about.
But I won’t know until I take it off again.
Cross all fingers and pray.
Starting to get worried I have caused it, cause of my inexperience.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

The strainer isn’t the cause of the loss of oil pressure but there really is no need to remove it – so don’t – when you change the oil. Manuals may say to inspect, or even replace, the strainer but that’s a carry over from Type 1 engines that don’t have an oil filter. If the strainer nut has been overtightened and the case has been damaged it would leak, if it doesn’t leak don’t touch it.

 

Exactly this^
Apologies if you thought I was implying that you had caused the problem with the strainer plate.
We're just filling you in on what can go wrong - it's a matter of familiarity rather competencey.
I added the o-ring info in case it rang a bell from your strainer removal/refitting, perhaps on refitting you found it off centre. That kind of thing. Knowledge is power.

 

It’s ok I understand you’re comments,
Thank you for your input, all I want to do is learn and gain as much knowledge as I can so I really appreciate all you’re advice. [mention]77 Westy [/mention][mention]zedders [/mention]


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

@Herman Ze Bus Any update?