New engine

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by burnzdog, Jun 8, 2014.

  1. Just to clarify... What speed were you doing when the overheating occurred??
     
  2. 55 no more
     
    Paul Weeding likes this.
  3. Once i had removed the tubes it was cooling as expected.
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    That makes no sense at all. A red herring I think.
     
  5. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Oil boiling in the sump? I'm surprised you still have an engine.

    If I were you I'd whip the engine out and strip off at least the ancillieries and see what you find. I have just done same for someone on a 1,000 mile (but 2 years old so out of warrenty) engine. The fan housing wasn't bolted down at each side, the alternator stand was cracked, no oil or tank breathers, all valve gaps closed up and last but far from least, the flaps were jammed because the operating lever from the thermostat was bent and the flaps themselves were caught in the housing and stuck partly closed.
     
    snotty, Barneyrubble and art b like this.
  6. Zed speaks the truth. The air pipes won't have any effect, and bubbling oil most definately isn't good. Something else is either causing the engine to get hot - need to check the timing and carbs running lean as a starting point - or something's not right with the cooling arrangements. Are the cooling flaps shut (if you've got them)?
     
  7. Missing under barrel air deflectors is a good one for boiling the oil
     
  8. Is the oil actually boiling, or is the compression to one or more cylinders shot? I had a similar problem a few years back, traced to the cylinder rings worn causing the sump to be pressurised. Oil was blowing out the dipstick tube and obviously the crank case breather
     
    art b and Owen Snell like this.
  9. That will cook your engine quite reliably.
     
  10. Mine was like that before its rebuild.
     
  11. Question to @burnzdog - have you ever seen the engine running reliably, or is this the first time it's really been fired up?
     
  12. Just to clarify. This is first time i have driven the van any distance. I drove 45 miles up to TLB's doing no more than 50. I stopped a few times to check the temp. Engine was hot but I could still hold dipstick with a problem. Once TLB had fixed the throttle issue I then had the opportunity to go a little faster :) so the first stretch of road I was doing around 55-60 Within a few miles I could smell the engine getting warm. When I stopped the engine was very hot. Dip stick - no chance. However once I waited for it to cool down again I then drove the next 30 miles home doing 50-55 without a problem.

    I havent had a chance to drive today, but i wonder when its starts hitting 55+ its starts to overheat. So I assume this means something is wrong or missing with the tin?
     
  13. Would it help to provide some tin pics?
     
  14. There are bits of tin missing. Wish I'd taken some photos now.
    Was so concentrating on getting it to go there wasn't time to look at everything else.
    The engine looks and sounds basically ok, it's quiet, relatively leak free, doesn't smoke excessively, so it is in fact in better nick than I am!
    The engine bar is missing and is needed, next time I will remember the camera. :rolleyes:
     
    CollyP and art b like this.
  15. Yeah, above and below the engine would be good!!
     
  16. Can you take the small tinware panel off under the bus, right-hand side, where the thermostat lives and take a pic straight up from there?
     
  17. All of the tin looks to be there - Apart from the oil cooler exhaust... this will cause major cooling issues within the engine bay!! As you'll have 100°c+ air coming off the oil cooler straight into the engine bay.

    There are 2 pieces of tin for the cooler exhaust that go on the lh side of the fan shroud between the shroud and the firewall
     
  18. Have you got X-ray vision, Paul ;)?
     
  19. Yeah - Those leather G strings you keep wearing really disturb me ;)

    [​IMG]
     

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