My first project..

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by ShaggyViking, May 29, 2022.

  1. We have the opposite problem to you. Ours is pretty solid underneath just the one outrigger to replace. Its had new arches front and back but not really fitted that well I may have play around to get things to line up. My main problem area is roof it has rusted all around the gutters some one has cut them off and patched them really badly. Im currently working on a front roof cut I managed to get which has the top of the door frames attached as well, this is a bonus because they had been poorly repaired as well. Yours looks like the the twin of mine! IMG_4262.jpg
     
    ShaggyViking likes this.
  2. Totally agree, leave engine until later when the bus is ready. Then see how much dosh you have to sort the engine. My 2l twin carb type 4 cruises at 60mph, 100kmh easliy but going over that all you do is chew up juice. Sort the body and running gear out, then throw in the motor, drive it. Good luck.
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2022
    ShaggyViking likes this.
  3. Jeff.. as my little boy has now named the bus... is going in for cutting and welding next week.

    Thinking about getting one of these
    https://www.frost.co.uk/ew-contour-sct/ to strip back all the sections not being replaced with fresh panels, so its ready for primer.

    Does anyone have experience using them?

    Looking forward to seeing the state of it under all these layers, of supposedly never been resprayed , paint.


    Once the body's straight I'm hoping to fly straight into colour, unless we hit any dramas.

    Has anyone wrapped a bus on here?. I'm concerned about stone chips eventually leading to re spraying down the line, and the prospect of not getting a good colour match, so have lined up a vehicle wrap specialist as a back up option in the meantime.

    Thoughts and opinions... fire them at me
     
  4. Angle grinder with poly abrasive strip discs much cheaper
     
    ShaggyViking likes this.
  5. Dub and Dubber

    Dub and Dubber Supporter

    Front end "bra" better than a wrap ... Cheaper, and removable so you can keep tabs on rot?
     
  6. We were thinking about a wrap for our bus, but read that apparently it only lasts about 5 years before it needs doing again if you want to keep it looking it's best. And you will want paint on the bare metal underneath to give decent corrosion protection anyway, so might not be a cheaper option after all
     
  7. Some decent thoughts to consider. Will speak to the paint shop, and maybe not go so crazy on a custom colour then.

    Bra sounds good, but I'm hoping with a brand new entire front end, I'll not have to worry in the short term.

    Will have a gander at the poly discs today
     
  8. So some obvious shock and horror stripping the bus down.

    Does anyone have a set of complete A Pillars?!?!
    Mine don't seem have any metal in them whatsoever.

    Complete front panel and inner screen panel all waiting to fit, but without the A Pillars we're at a stop for now.
     

    Attached Files:

    JamesLey likes this.
  9. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    You want a complete front clip really. Might be more cost effective to buy one off the likes of FBIVW or our very own @davidoft if he has one.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2022
  10. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    ShaggyViking likes this.
  11. Cheers. I've already got a full front panel from Just Kampers. But annoyingly nobody seems to do A Pillars for >1972?

    Will dm davidoft and see what he may have on offer
     
  12. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    In all honesty, for the bit you need all bay A pillars are the same.
     
    ShaggyViking likes this.
  13. Just need some outer skins really to create the correct screen shape.
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Shame these are no longer obtainable.
    [​IMG]

    @Dean mitropoulos might be able to help with sourcing, his were really bad and looking good now.
     
  15. firstly before you cut out any thing else, I would brace the front from a pillar to a pillar and a to b pillar. looking at your a pillar outer skins witch weld on to the the front panel like in the photo above have been obsolete since 2013. I would be trying to save them and just do what is needed as I don't think you will be able to make a replacement part your self. I had two get a metal fabricator to make them and they were wrong so the guy helping/ doing most of the work had to make them. The top section of the panel is actually behind the roof so you would have to cut out the roof first before you repair the top.They usually only rust in the top corners and the bottom. Try to at least get your front finished before you replace the dog legs or don't cut the doglegs out without proper bracing if the front is apart as it could move the structure of the kombi. I would also be replacing the windscreen support. The outer valliance on yours is only flat piece of steel so that may need to be replaced. As @Zed said to me always have the replacement panel on hand before you cut anything else out. don't forget to brace everything before you remove so the air box does not drop causing you to loose you reference for the windscreen support panel.
     
    ShaggyViking and Zed like this.
  16. just don't do this
     

    Attached Files:

  17. JustKampers have absolutely excelled this morning, parts order placed at 6pm yesterday, for all replacement panels for the 'additional' work we've now created, all delivered by 1300hrs the next day on their standard delivery service.

    So now we're on the hunt for a Inner front Valance section, so we can actually rebuild the front end, JK have us on backorder, fingers crossed they come in sooner than expected.

    Anyone know what the section above the dashboard is called (with the slot vents in the top)? I've found a few cracks in the rubber surround across the leading edge, and can't conjure up a suitable part name for the search bar.

    20220824_170648.jpg

    And finally for now, am i best doing the windscreen motor and assembly now whilst its open, or get it rebuilt and pull the dash out after?
     
    Dean mitropoulos likes this.
  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Take the dash out, it's 3 pieces as any diagram will show you.
    Top tip, don't pull the wires off ANYTHING. Undo the switches, push them though the dash. The headlight one has a small hole in the stem - you can use a small drill through it to stop the stem turning while you unscrew the knob, you need to do this or you'll destroy the dash light dimmer. The others just unscrew the knobs.
    Instrument cluster - again push it back through the dash leaving all the wires connected.
    Pull the plastic ends off the heater controls.
    best way to remove the dash is in pieces starting with the top. 10mm nuts hold it all together, you'll see when you look.
     
  19. why do you want to rebuild the windscreen motor? If there is nothing wrong with it clean it check the joints and spindles.
     
    Zed likes this.

Share This Page