My Engine rebuild

I had a few engine running issues last year uneven and losings power on hill.

After the normal things, Timeing, plugs& leads, vlave gaps etc it was running better but still not right.
I found the timing was bouncing around so fitted a new dissy changing it from the 009 to vacuum again much improved but not quite there.

Fast forward a few months due to bad health and lack of funds.

Strip and rebuild carbs changing the jets as per mucky greens info





Then on to engine
Odd compression readings they where just in tolance but all over the place so check the valve gaps

odd valve pattern with one sticking higher


So out with engine and head off to find a head with cracks in both chambers



so best check the other side not look to bad until i cleaned it and found a crack

So left with this

 

It will be worth the effort and stress once its all as it should be dude

 

Moved on to end float and found


Now what to do its outside spec but you hear lots of story's of people running for years on much more but that the case is scrap so rebuild now or just put new heads on and run until its a issue.

Decided to have a go at a rebuild have done uprights before but a long time ago and not flat 4

I have ordered tom wilsons book and a fly wheel tool

In the meantime i took off one of the pistons and con-rod to check the bearings


doesn't look to bad
When i get the fly wheel off i will see if there is movement in the bearing before taking the final dis on splitting the case.

comments welcome

 

I know at some point i will have to take my engine apart and re-build. I have never worked on an engine before only to change the oil and filter. I do want to get it spanking shinny though before i put it back together. Its great to see you guys posting your engine threds,it all helps and Keep up the great work Matty

 

had a look and the shell has STD/0 on it so it looks like its standard so room for work

 

Got a bit more done today



The rear main does move a bit and worrying turns quite a lot
Little ends are ok bar no 2 witch has some play
Pistons a rings measure ok along with the barrels
Should split the case the weekend and know the extent of the proplem

 

Right need your help now @Paul Weeding zed


No2 main is worn but the rest doesn't look bad but not total sure what i am looking at and i am confused that no1 was turning but now it locks in tight
Also whats the measurement on the case meant to be to be

case split


No1 case



No1 bearing


No1 crank


No2 shell

 

Is that bearing down to the bronze colour?

 

Can you give me the details of how you split the case please?
Ready to do mine tomorrow

 

looks like it needs a grind and a bore to me!!

score marks on the journals are a big no no... plus the state of the bearings suggest that you've had low oil pressure!!

journal and bearing seat specs are listed in haynes

 

I use one of these
http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares...33113_lang_EN_country_GB.htm?crumbStartPage=1

 

Pauls better than me in this department but i agree with him from the pictures it looks like its machine shop time dude
I just hope paul doesent put up simmaler pics when he splits my case as mine was rebuilt without machine work but a new crank less than a thousand miles ago

 

I taped with a wooden mallet the flange with the hole in it top right in your pic and there is another one on the other side of the case below the oil pump this broke the seal then just a case of wiggling it off.

Make sure you have all the nuts off i missed one that threw me for a bit under the pulley

It might be worth getting the pulley off before you split as mine was a bit tight

 

Thanks although it has lines i cant feel anything but am going to take it to a machine shop to see

I cant find the spec for the thickness for the case at the flywheel end to see if the case is worn

 

Yes only the middle bearing all the rest look ok a nice grey colour

 

The crank is fully striped now i am going to take it to a engine place next week and see if a grind in needed it has a few lines but i cant feel them so not sure but as i am replacing the shells seams silly not to

Looks like the cam followers are warn they have a bit of pitting so new ones
One of the small ends has more play than the others but think i will get them all done.
Now for the big clear up and clean every thing and sort the tin out as i save up the fund to put back together.

No4


The case looks ok so not sure whether to get a line bore or not lots of info says do it as a matter of course but i don't understand why

 

People only align bore as a matter of course because its cheaper to by the tooling to do it than it is to buy the measuring equipment to check a case properly.

 

And if they do get the tools to measure everything they still have to buy the tools for boring the case, so it's economical sense to just bore the case wether it needs it or not.

 

Looking at your photo....



You can see the bright lines from the bearing, to me that says bearing movement... can you feel a slight ridge with your fingernail?

As you're taking the crank to the machine shop for a check over, I'd be inclined to take the case too

 

Not much done started to clean stuff up


I know its was a replacement VW engine as its a AD code but found this stamped on the case so i assume its the date it was built


So far i need
crank regrind
new little ends
New cam followers
New bearing shells all round

just got to do extra work to pay for it

On a plus side did some work on a van for someone and got paid with this could of done with the money but its better than the one i have