Maybe that's just the weight of the burden people put on you for your knowledge lol Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk
I am svelte, thank-you. The pipe gives me a better foothold than the bar, I tape measure it, give or take a few cm.
I purchased a digital torque wrench eBay. Well pleased. 0-200nm. Use any units at the press of a button. I compared it to a mechanical wrench I had calibrated previously and it was very close.
I've got a Halfords 3/8" drive for small stuff up to 45 ft lbs. It's fine. I believe they're made by Norbar. For heftier stuff I've got a typical Chinese thing, but accuracy not that important. I've always found Halfords tools ok, and they will replace them if they break.
Hub nuts: stand on the bathroom scales and heave on the end of a 3ft breaker bar until you get 6 stone lighter (or heavier). That gives you 250 ft lbs.
I would just make sure it has a locking mechanism on the torque setting. My cheap replacement doesnt lock, its too easy to wind it up or down 10 ft lbs while handling the wrench on a cylinder head. I broke my best one using too much torque.. lazy ..stupid .. One day I am going to weld a 46mm socket to the other side of the Torquemeister so it does bus wheel nuts and flywheels using opposite sides rather than Beetle wheels or flywheels...
I’ve also got a Chinese one that goes up to 350 ft lb. It’s so heavy, I can’t actually lift it out of the box.
I have two one Laser 3/8 square drive 19 - 110Nm it has 3/8 - 1/2 inch adaptor and a RAC 1/2 inch square 28 - 210 Nm with 5" extension a d 1/2" - 3/8 adaptor both ratchet models with lockable adjuster both are good bits of kit As for rear hub nuts well 2 x 46mm combi spanners and me balanced on the end not failed yet
Just wondering what the best range for a TW would be or is it a case of getting a couple? I ask as the dreaded oil strainer is a v low setting (13nm) and I'm not sure how many applications would need such a low torque (not that I'm planning to touch mine any time soon!)
Ideally you’d need a smaller wrench that does inch lbs. I wouldn’t trust a Chinese job, given that you can do damage by over tightening. Norbar would likely sell you an accurate one.
Some of our cousins over the pond modify/brace the oil pick-up against the bottom of the case and heave against that. A bit OTT and needs the engine in pieces to do. Here's a random thread with someone's solution. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=645213
Yep I've been warned off and the only reason would be if my slow oil leak is as a result of some PO bodge. I'll load another thread about the oil to see if anybody can ID source.
It's as good a rule as any cause I can never see which lines line up on my scale,I could be a full revolution out with the setting and I wouldn't know
Wouldn't fitting a deeper sump as sold by all the usual suspects solve the problem... I haven't touched mine , but you know what it's like when you're told not to touch !
I didn't know you could get an extra sump for a type-4. How would you attach it? With the case cracking bolt?
Oh the fun...you can just make out the lugs welded onto the pick up to bodge breaking the case.. then it was tightened so much, undoing it sheared the stud... Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
There is a bar that goes across the original sump hole that has a couple of threaded holes in it for the extension to fix to. The original bolt is not used, as there is an extension tube fits over the inner pickup pipe to reach down into the extended sump