Usually discovered by people whose front ball joints were assembled wrong. The front wheel falls off on a roundabout .
What a day but she's done and level with a 3 inch drop, I had to cut 2 of the bolt off, I started at 9.30 this morning and I've only just finished I bet some of you could of taken an engine out full rebuild and back in in the time it's taken me, I've ordered some new shocks which should be here tomorrow, I might have to trim or take off the mud flaps as they are nearly touching the floor, It measures 63 inches from gutter to floor front, middle and rear
How low it ends up does also depend on how heavy it, a fact often overlooked when looking for and giving lowering advice. Mine looks a spline down but it's stock and rammed with heavy stuff. My tintop was light and at 2 splines down didn't look it. This must also effect how the suspension behaves and why we find that what works for one doesn't necessarily work the same for another.
You passed by the point you could have done that yesterday...but...at least the bolts will be free now. Loosen the 4 bolts again, lift the rear of the hub relative to the springplate with your jack under the shock mount end of the hub. Tighten your bolts. Job jobbed. There isn't a lot of adjustment available but the above is how to get as much as there is. Mind your tracking - assuming you marked your springplates yesterday...
@zedders sorry for sounding thick do you mean the 4 bolts that hold the spring plate cover or the 4 bolts the other end that hold the wheel hub
My bad. The 22mm spanner ones - springplate to hub. If you didn't support the hub and tightened the four bolts while the hub "dangled" on the springplate, you have inadvertantly maxxed out the camber... negative stylee.
I'm trying to get my head around this, I can't work out if you loosen the bolts then jack up the shock mount then re tighten the bolts how this changes the camber, am I missing something?
It's a bit of a crappy way to do it, but it's the way it was designed. VW didn't expect you to lower it so there is only a small amount of adjustment. Have a look in that book you wrote, if you still don't understand I'll try and explain. If my lappy wasn't temporarily dead I'd draw you a picture.
I'll try anyway. You notice the hub and diagonal arm are one piece. The diagonal arm is connected to the torsion housing. Ideally, if you moved that connection up a bit it would sort out your camber. With me? But you can't...well you could by chopping the brackets off and fitting them higher... but I wouldn't try that. What you can do is twist the diagonal arm and hub relative to that mount which affects the camber. But you can only twist it as far as the holes/slots in the springplate allow as per my instructions/Haynes.
