I'm in the process of running two wires from the leisure battery to the RnR bed and one up to the very front.
Cor i m getting good at this! Only problem is, its one of those things where I've made it my mission to learn something (and save cash), and I discover endless questions! Relays........normally open or normally closed......does it even matter What colour wire insulation for each part Is it better for fuse box to have a single earth connection Flipping nora
- relay: normally open - colours: the choice is yours. Pastels are nice. VW used brown for earth, red for unswitched 12V, black for switched 12V - fusebox: it doesn't have an earth. All the fuses are in the 12V supply lines - pants: I go for Next these days - Toast Toppers: mushroom
You'll have one +12 line into the fusebox from the battery, and several 12V lines out, going wherever, each fused. Is that what you meant?
Lots of them appear to need a separate supply for each fuse, but now found what you're talking about....same as in pkrboo PIC at start of thread
Ideally, you need one that has a common busbar on the input side, supplying one end of all fuses. If the box hasn't got one, just link all the input ends together. <edit> You could strip the core out of a bit of 2.5mm2 mains cable and use it as a busbar.
Hello me again, jeez I'm a pain. Ordering the cable etc to do the split charge, just wondering about inline fuses and how many are necessary. Is a fuse required between each component? So 1 between starter batt and relay. 1 between relay and leisure batt. 1 between leisure batt and leisure fuse box Sound right ?
I used a relay with 30 amp fuse built in for my split charge relay which I understand covers the connection between SB and LB. And I haven't put a fuse in line from LB to the new fuse box.
I wouldn't bother with the last one personally, the other two should be located at the battery end of the wires.
Well, you do, if you like fuses, because the one in your relay isn't actually protecting anything. I can't think of any circumstance where it would blow with a normal split charge arrangement. As Zed said, one in the LB line to the relay, ditto for the SB line if you must. If you've got a long, unprotected run to the the LB fuse box, stick one in that lead as well. You're trying to protect the wiring if it should chafe through, hence fuse as close to the batt as poss. VW ran a whole 10 foot supply cable from the battery to the front of the van without any protection, mind ...
No I still haven't bought this crap, I'm easily distracted. On the subject of fuses I came across a ready made kit for t2s, all cables the correct lengths, etc. But it has no fuses in the cables anywhere So what's the score? Fuses are an optional extra? Some folk stick em in for fun?
Just sorted myself via Mick here.. Not exactly what Matty suggests, but I had my own reasons for going rogue.... http://stores.ebay.co.uk/splitchargesystems
A fuse just protects the cable. Your stock charging setup doesn't have them. As long as the wires aren't going to chafe, you could say you don't need them. Up to you. One possible further use is to prevent the LB from starting the van if the relay packs up (unlikely) or isn't driven from the alt output, as it should be.
