Battery acid is stronger on a fully charged battery. 1.250 Sg or there about. Discharged or dead cell will be 1.100 Sg. As mentioned get the baking soda & a good flush with cold water on asap as corrosion will set in quickly.
That is correct @Gooders - you listened well in your physics lessons - the good old hydrometers that we used to test the battery acid density ( or specific gravity as it was known in the olden days) used this principle.
Still use a hydrometer to check lead acid batteries. We have 2 expensive Midtronics battery testers at work. Both have passed batteries as “good” when they actually have had a dead cell
Sorry for a stupid question, but are we only talking Solar Charge Controllers? Or normal battery chargers? For example, I have this charging my leisure battery when on hookup, which is ALWAYS when parked on my drive. Doesn't have anything to check battery temperature. Should I be worried?
Yes but probably best to do it carefully, with s flow of water not a jet. Take out the foam seal rinse and dry on the LB side. Make sure you rinse out crevices , take off the rear apron. You are trying to get chemicals out of crevices where they cause rust not fill up the engine with water.
I wouldn’t leave it on for any length of time. It should self regulate but it is a charger not a conditioner/maintainer like the Ctek ones which switch off when fully charged and switch on again when the voltage drops. They float charge so should not in theory overcharge.
I don't think the apron comes off. Did a mercy dash at 10pm last night with the hose on low and rinsed all. Seals are in a Just Kampers box that just arrived.. Off to the baking powder shop this morning.. Thanks for all the help guys - really appreciate it When it happened, I was in the hot tub.. if you play your cards right,I might share the CCTV of me rushing to the van in my towel... maybe not .
Buy a 5a CTEK if it's only for a trickle and top up . Your charger is exactly that , a charger , not a conditioner and 10a is a lot to be banging into a fully charged battery . As said above , a 5a CTEK conditioner will charge a battery at 5a until it's charged then trickle in an amp or two as and when . Yours puts in 10a and knocks off . A few days later sees it needs a top up and fires in 10a until it's fully charged and knocks off until the next 10a etc etc .... 10 amps is a fast charger in my 'umble opinion , not really for continuous connection . Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Thanks Lasty. I'll give Simplysplitcharge.co.uk a call as this was recommended by them two years ago as part of their own hookup, split charge, RCD and sockets kit. But that aside, what's worried me in this post is lack of battery temperature sensor, which I've never heard of, so it's new to me. Looking at the ctek's, they don't seem to all have battery temperature sensors either do they? Seeing this poor chaps experience here, it seems everyone should have one to prevent the same problem? Or have I got the wrong end of the stick? Don't want mine to explode too in this lovely summer we're having Sent from my SM-N970F using Tapatalk
Seperate temperature sensors are only used on solar systems as far as I'm aware , most mains battery chargers have an internal thermal cut out to prevent the charger overheating . Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
CTEK are a tried and trusted brand. I have a couple, for my bikes in winter. After an event with a Chinese battery jump pack & fire in the garage last year I tend to steer well clear of cheap Chinese chargers
Super, so it's just solar. Phew! SSC just said mine is for permanent hookup and has thermal cutout to prevent overheat and keeps the battery maintained. So, that's a relief. I can relax Sent from my SM-N970F using Tapatalk
We have this baby at work for maintaining voltage while doing ecu updates. Expensive bit of kit but does the job. You don’t need one this size by the way for your leisure battery
You may need to explain this a little more Mike: maybe a separate thread. I'm sure my epever solar controller gives me battery temperature readings, but I've never heatshrinked anything!
I have one down from that, 300 watts, I use it to power the whole Bus on hookup as my fridge is 110v on AC being as it's US import so the AC wire is disconnected and I run it off DC.
It has a default setting Sarah (25 degrees ??) , you buy the temp sensor separately . There's a plug on the Epever main unit , you remove the plug and attach the remote sensor wire ... I didn't bother Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
