if she had two 300 cupboards the boiler would be boxed in a deeper cupboard like this one on the right.
Hey Jez, really great to meet you today bud, I've had a looky at what I've got and i have 2 mdf panels for the back of the seat bulkhead, 2 mdf panels that go over the rear wheel arches either side of the R&R bed, and 1 mdf panel that goes opposite the sliding door never been used, bought them from Jk, they are all yours for free if you want them, give us a ring on my mobile and i can drop them round on saturday as I'm out and about.
Good to meet you too mate. Least now I can stop asking members of staff for a look at their bonce!! That's very generous offer, thanks. Depending how early on sat I might still be asleep?? I'll give you a bell tomorrow anyway. Or I should be back tomorrow for more refund action, will av a look for you! Ta muchly
Cooker hood chimney cutout for ducting and fitted up Fabricated my own bridging unit for over fridge because b&q don't do one in the size I wanted, still to cut a panel to size for door This the gouge I made with router on worktop last week oops Was going to use this damaged one for curved tops on other side but decided to just keep it on sink side and now we will have upstands (we weren't having them) the thickness of which will cover the hole So after multiple trial fittings and trimmings, the top is cut to size and in place, but not fitted Here's me gash in situ
Turns out the sink jig that came with kitchen is no good so gave up for today, hopefully do a jig tomorrow and cutout for sink. Found a cheap curved jig on eBay so waiting for that to do curly wurly worktops
Have you considered adding a bit to the back of the work top to form a new window board/cill. Looks like it may work in the photo?
Was going to make windowsill from the splashback material, but that's ^ not a bad Idea, will look into that thanks. You'll know how heavy a 3m oak worktop is. I think I've had it in and out about 10 times trial fitting it and then taking it back out to the trampoline for adjustment. Missus helped a couple of times but my back hurts now!
I've done a couple of jobs where the window board level was about right. I scrapped the window board and some of the plaster and ran the work top in. It looks nice when done and is easier to do with oak because the joins don't show up so much. It does make the work top nice and wide, especially as most people have the sink by the window...you can never have enough work top space. And yes I know how heavy 3m work tops are, I'm glad we stopped using 4m lengths Starting to look finished now, on site we would call this a dairy job
Any opinions on best oil for oak worktop? So far been recommended tung, osmo and generic worktop oil by different people. Does it even matter?
Hmm the sill base is higher than than base of worktop by about an inch so can't just extend it into window recess. Maybe just step it up, or plane down a piece to make it correct thickness ? Dairy job?!
Can you lower the cill a little (hammer n bolster), or like you say plane the work top a bit. Work top oil Osmo gets all the good reviews, but we use whatever Howdens send! Just put plenty of coats on, at least 2/3 underneath and 4/5 on top. I go over the top with some 240 grit before the last coat. Dairy job= milking it
Here's the sink, going to be undermounted. I like making it harder for myself! Tomorrow's job. After Lhu posted about bent worktops, I checked mine today. They are slightly warped, my own fault though as I've had them sorted in the conservatory standing on edge, but I'm confident they'll flatten off once fitted. Plus I've no joints where it would show up
Why is a router better than a jigsaw? Ive never used a router and was going to use a jigsaw to make the cupboards in my van Does a router give a neater cut?
Yes, much better, especially on thicker, harder woods. It's like comparing gas axe with laser cutting.
