Inner front valance-photos required please....

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by smeato, Jul 8, 2020.

  1. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Hi, does anyone have an original, unrepaired inner front valance on their bus (the bit that goes between the front edge of the cab floor and attaches to the top of the crossmember)? I need to make a new one but don’t know what the pressings look like. It would need to be photographed from above, from behind the kick panels.
    Cheers
     
  2. Do you mean that bit?[​IMG]
     
    Poptop2 likes this.
  3. You can buy these now, if your budget can stretch to it. Otherwise the pictures may be helpful. Bit of a pain to repair as the pressing is quite complex, I wish these were available when I repaired mine!
    https://www.alanhschofield.com/ourp...el-6872-will-fit-later-models-211805331D.html
     
    Davipon likes this.
  4. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Yea that’s the bit- but I really need a picture from above looking down..:thinking:
     
  5. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Yea I’ve seen those new ones but I’ve just fitted new cab floors so I don’t really want to remove the whole thing and have to re-weld the cab floor, the top bit of mine is ok it’s just the bottom bit that has disintegrated. I’m ok with fiddly fabrication-I quite like the challenging bits:thumbsup:
     
    Coda likes this.
  6. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Can you still access this or is your bus back together?
     
  7. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    This of any use? Possibly not the best reference as I had to completely rebuild that bottom lip.
    [​IMG]
     
    Zed likes this.
  8. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Cheers for that-That’s the earlier type, deeper valance but it gives me a bit of a clue as to what it should look like although the holes are different...... I’ll have a look at mine today and see what I can come up with...:thinking:
     
  9. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Still none the wiser... can anyone help?
     
  10. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    Lasty likes this.
  11. That one is now complete with outer front panel and deformation panel inner and outer.
    It’s difficult to get a meaningful picture down from above.
    Have you got a front panel on?
    Maybe order a new one, copy it then send it back?
     
  12. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    That’s much appreciated but I can’t see what I need from that angle. Cheers anyway
     
    MorkC68 likes this.
  13. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Ha! That would be a bit cheeky. Yea it’s a difficult bit to get to. Cheers anyway
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Maybe if you posted a picture of the area(s) of yours that you want details of?
     
  15. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    this is the area I’m working on. The photos are taken from the front edge of the cab floor behind the kick panels, looking down over the edge. What you can see here is the inside of the front panel and the new crossmember clamped to the ends of the chassis rails, the lower, rotten part of the inner valance has been cut away-this is what I need to make and I just need to see the shape and layout of the pressings in that lower part of the valance.
    upload_2020-7-10_11-19-33.jpeg
    upload_2020-7-10_11-21-39.jpeg
     
  16. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Would anyone manage to do this for me?
     
  17. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Or does anyone know of a front end cut?
     
  18. The method that JamesLey used in his thread is probably your best bet. I did something similar and went through the trouble of reproducing all the different stampings, etc. Other than the holes that the wires run through, there is no functional vale in doing it this way. It's also almost impossible to see down into that section, so there is limited value in making it pretty. I just wanted to see if I could do it and was trying out some new metal working skills. As nice as the Schofield panel is, it's probably not worth it as only the bottom looks rotten, same as my bus. You would only be using a small part and it would probably be difficult to fit and cut to size without mauling it. I would recommend doing it in sections and welding them up as you fit them. As long as the back of the panel doesn't interfere with anything and you have holes for the wiring...you're good. It keeps the outside out and the inside in. Here is my link on the Samba:

    https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=694646&start=40
     
    nobayinhell likes this.
  19. smeato

    smeato Supporter

    Yea, I’ve got an idea what it should look like so if I can’t get a cut I’ll probably just patch it up the best I can. Cheers
     
  20. It looks from your photos that you have cut away the bottom of the nose. I can’t tell how far up you cut it or if you are planning to replace the nose, patch it or do the whole lower nose with a pre-made panel.

    I think the best way to repair it if you are leaving your cab floor intact is to repair it from the front. You may need to cut the front panel higher to get in there. My front panel was in good condition and it pained me to cut it to get access but it was the only way I could get in there and get it all cleaned out. I did do some of the welding from the back under the bus but it really sucked. It is a sucky panel to do if you are trying to preserve the original metal work around it. Good luck with your project.
     
    Coda likes this.

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