A '72 cross over model with the plastic ignition switch with the pigtail wires attached. Whilst away a couple of weeks ago the starter failed to operate, but bumping got me home okay, so I checked the wires at starter solenoid - all okay - so ordered a new switch. After wiring it in all electrics worked but the starter would not work. I tested the voltages and although I had 12v on the ignition permanent live (red) on twisting the switch I did not get 12 (anything) on the starter solenoid wire (red/black). However hot wiring the two turned my starter over okay. So I ordered another new switch, with intention of returning the 'faulty' switch. I have wired the replacement in and same apparent issue! The key turns to ignition on and then the resistive twist to starter position/spring back as normal, and as my original switch did. I can hot wire the start as above but am stumped at why the switch operation won't make the 12v feed from live to starter solenoid. I am not aware that the ignition barrel is faulty as it turns freely with key when the ignition switch is out. As I want to use the bus next week for a trip I will have to rig up a push start switch....
Test the new switch by checking the voltage on the switch harness when you turn the key to "start " and se if you have 12 volts on the wire that feeds the starter solenoid (red/black?). If you have the problem could be between the switch harness and the starter solenoid. If you haven't....it would be strange to get 2 new faulty switches...but not impossible I guess.
Thanks - I have tried that. If I bridge the permanent live and the starter solenoid wire under the dash I get start okay. I therefore have good continuity from front to the starter solenoid. I have had the ignition in and out several times checking everything is lined up with the barrel in off position. I have just had the switch out and I can get continuity when turning it with a screwdriver so it seems that my barrel is not quite turning far enough on start position but barrel does turn almost 180' with key when switch is out.
We have seen this.. how many click detents on your switch between Off and Start.. should be one, not two Like my video .. . The correct switch goes Off-Run-Start. The other switch that fits the housing goes Off-Accessory/Sidelights-Run-Start.. It doesnt reach starter position in a T2. Its for having the radio on without melting the coil.
Thanks Mike - thought you had it there but just checked mine and they have just the two positions like yours. Definitely only 2 precise positions and ignition on is 90' from off, like yours. Here is my replacement switch https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/product/111905865f/ Thanks anyway
This is strange..that looks like the right switch, your description matches. I noticed when I made that switch demo video it takes quite a lot of torque to turn the switch fully to start position.. slop somewhere between the key moving and the rotating peg that drives the switch might cause a problem.
I have jiggled and jiggled the key, and the spare key, and can't get any further movement clockwise on the starter section. You might be right on the barrel as the issue, but you will know what a pain they are to get out. In the meantime I will fit a momentary push switch to connect the live to solenoid wire. Just working out where to fit it on the dash/drill the hole...
Put it down alongside the headlamp switch etc. Then you can re-use the hole later for an accessory switch. Maybe use a smaller pushbutton that fits the same hole as a Hella switch , and fit a hot start relay to allow you to use a lower rated switch.. you need something that switches up to maybe 30-40 amps to feed the starter solenoid It is probably a good idea to use a relay to save the run contact on the ignition switch anyway as e.g. it wont turn the headlamps off when you use the external starter switch, and as the start switch should be wired to the ignition contact of the key switch, you dont want to add to the load on the key switch. Maybe hide the switch up under the lower edge of the dash so its not obvious. Again a tiny 1 amp switch would be happy driving a relay.. Or go the other way and buy one of those switches with a big red flip up cover and a massive momentary toggle switch. Depends on the style you want. You dont really want to make it too easy to hit the starter switch once it has started. Screeeeeeeeeeeeeee! That is made difficult with the stock switch where the interlock gives you one start attempt per switching on the ignition.
