How to... Valve adjustment on a TYPE 4 engine video

Discussion in 'How To' started by Joker, Aug 18, 2011.

  1. This differs slightly to the Type 1 or 'upright' style engine. I did mine yesterday so recorded what and how and have modified this now to include thevideo. Its in 2 parts because of the size.

    Applies to all 1700, 1800 and 2000cc engines without hydraulic lifters.

    Valves should be set at 0.15mm or 0.006" on all intake and exhaust valves. This should be done when the engine is cold - best left overnight and done in the morning

    Part 1

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    Type 4 Valve adjustment pt 1.mov

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    The very simplest way;

    1) Spread a sheet out and make life comfortable and easy for yourself.

    2) Get the van to TDC on #1. Do this by;

    Remove dizzy cap. Turn engine by hand using a spanner or socket on your alternator until;

    The rotor points to #1 firing position, approximately 5 o clock or the notch on your dizzy AND the notch on your fan points to 0 on your timing scale, or approximately 11 o clock. If you have no timing scale you'll have to rely on either a screw driver down #1 hole (you watch this until its on the crest of its travel) or looking at the valves on #1 as someone turns the engine by hand for you - you are watching the springs to see when the valves are closed.

    Haven't got a timing scale and fan cover? Get one, they are dirt cheap now from VW Heritage et al

    Done this? Ok

    On the right side of the van remove rocker cover. Start at #1 (front of van) and check the valve clearances. Adjust as required.

    Part 2


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    Type 4 Valve adjustment Pt 2.mov

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    Then rotate the engine 180 degrees anti-clockwise which will enable you to do #2 (back of van) whilst you're on that side of the van. Refit your rocker covers. Then go 180 degrees anti clockwise again, then go to the left side of the van to do #3 (front of van), then anti clockwise again to do #4.

    Start your engine - it should sound sweet

    Take your time think it through slowly and you'll be sorted.
     
    Babble, geordieandy and alanchester like this.
  2. JBA

    JBA

    That's great. The videos are a brilliant aid as well.
    Well done for taking the time to do them.

    I think it's worth mentioning that the clearances should be set when the engine is stone cold.
     
  3. good call - now modded
    ;D
     
  4. Nice one joker. K+
     
  5. Fantatsic post, first job in the autumn!
     
  6. Brilliant narrative on the vids mate
     
  7. The engine doesn't need to be that cold.... ;)
     
    Last edited: May 25, 2015
  8. Wouldn't it be worth making mention of hydraulic lifters because for the type 4 engine, the valve adjustment is different.
     
  9. I haven't included the Hydraulic adjustment because its not a maintenance/service adjustment.These are set following strip down/rebuild
    :)
     
  10. cheers for this Joker...k2u
     
  11. Brilliant - I need to do mine so this will come in handy!

    Can I share a tip I learned doing this? To remove the rocker cover clip (especially if you have nice shiny ones) without damage, take a length of dry rag and loop it through the raised part of the clip. This allows you to grab the rag with both hands and apply considerable outwards and downwards force silmultaneously, thus removing the clip without damage. Use the same technique to put them back on, if makes life SO much easier.

    Also, if you have never done the valves before and your bus lives outside take care to put some penetrating oil on the parts where the clip goes into the head - I have heard of some that have seized and snapped in the holes. Not difficult to rectify, but why have the hassle...

    I notice in this video that you have lifted the clips up, I was tought to always bring them down as they can get stuck in the up position. Is this right?

    Hope this helps, Ade.
     
  12.  
  13. mcswiggs

    mcswiggs Supporter

    Can anyone tell me how you can tell whether you've got hydraulic lifters?

    The manual says look at the push rods for solid steel rather than alloy tubes with steel tips, but that's quite difficult without taking them out and having one of the other type check against.

    Mine is a 2 litre type 4 engine in a '79 bay. Again, the manual says all type 4s after 1978 have hydraulic lifters, but I'm not sure I trust it. The little sticker on the fan housing tells me the clearances should be set at 0.15mm, which to me says that it's not hydraulic.

    Does the m-plate give any clues, or the vehicle or engine number?

    Suggestions welcomed....

    Dom
     
  14. mcswiggs

    mcswiggs Supporter

    Errr... Looks like I've answered my own question. At http://www.tunacan.net/t4/reference/case.htm there is a decode for the engine number prefix. The european spec type 4 had solid lifters. Time to break out the feeler gauges.
     
  15. Videos are excellent thanks.

    I plan to do this on Wednesday as my (new) vege type 4 engine is leaking oil. Vege have asked me to check the valve clearance to see if it will rectify my problems.
    I reckon it's leaking from every possible seal. Increase in oil pressure would be my first guess but need to find the reason why.
    I'll have to phone them back first tho as I'm sure the guy recommended setting them at 0.008.

    Is it best to remove the rear wheels for better access?

    Cheers Neil
     
  16. These videos are great thanks @Joker :)

    However i have a small problem which i hope someone can help me out with, I'm currently converting my engine to Megasquirt fuel injection with coil on plug ignition and as such have removed the dissy and dissy drive, has anyone got a tip on how to know when I'm at the #1 firing position?

    Engine is currently out of the van on a stand with both valve covers off so I was thinking something along the lines of someone turning the engine clockwise with the flywheel while I watch the valves until I can see that the #1 valves are slack?!?! does that even make sense or is it a stupid idea?!?

    Any help/tips much appreciated, cheers :)

    deano
     
  17. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    Is the crank pulls still in place? If it is use the TDC mark and check both valves on number one are loose (rocking)
     
  18. Hi,

    Sorry, forgot to say its a type IV motor, and yes the fan is on and does have the timing mark/nick on it so I will re-attach the timing scale and see if I can figure it out, I found this on thesamba

    "rotate the engine until the TDC mark is in line with the case seam. Then have someone rock the engine back and forth as you observe the valves on #3. If they move then you are on overlap on #3 and at TDC for #1. If the valves for #1 move then you are on TDC for #3"

    So I guess for the type IV motor I line up the timing mark with the zero on the scale (as in Joker's vid) rather than the case seam (for type 1 motor) and then rock it back and forth to see if I'm on the overlap for 1 and 3...

    I'll have a play this week, thanks for the help much appreciated.

    Deano.
     

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