Hi @Lardy and @DaisyJuckes... I'll post some diagrams and more detailed photos tomorrow, if that will help. In the meantime, here's a photo of the unit closed down. The end of the worktop locks down in transit and hides the built-inZig power unit and socket.
Hi @MK-Bay that looks great, I'm just about to start building my units. Those curved doors are very impressive did you make them? I like the extended worktop, I had discounted that sort of idea as I'm not sure which way round we will sleep, I assume you sleep head over the engine? Maybe I should start a which way round do you sleep thread
Seriously though, some sleep with their heads at the cab end to avoid smacking their heads on the overhead locker and then there's the other way round. Haven't had the opportunity to try it out yet so it's definetly worth putting it out there fella? Interested to see what comes back on that @PeterW3035
Hi @PeterW3035. I did make the doors myself so have posted some info below. You're right, we sleep with our heads above the engine but there's plenty of space and no leg room issues or clashes with the cupboard when the bed is down. With a teenager, 18-month old toddler, two Labradors and two adults to accommodate, we needed a full-width R&R bed, a fridge, sink, cooker and storage, as well as leg room for three people on the bench seat and two dogs on the floor, so everything was measured very carefully. My unit was made to ensure I could accommodate the fridge on the left and, to the right of the unit, a small box for two CampinGaz bottles. The cupboard has a curved door so that someone sitting on the end of the bench seat can still stretch their legs out comfortably. The Ikea beechblock worktop is curved to match the door and has a fold-down end to extend the surface area when cooking but still allow someone to sit at the end of the bench seat when the worktop’s folded down. The cupboard frame is quite simple to make out of 12mm MDF, with 9mm ply back. The most difficult thing to make is the curved door, but even this is quite simple if you take your time. The drawer front is made in the same way as the door front. To make the door frame, you’ll need three curved pieces and two straight strips of 12mm MDF, approximately 7cm wide, as shown below. These are then pre-drilled, screwed and glued together, making sure it’s all square and left overnight to dry. The skin is made from two pieces of 3.2mm plywood (which is very flexible), one on top of the other. They’re cut around 5cm wider and taller than the finished door to allow you to trim it properly once it’s all dried. With the first piece of ply, start at the straight edge of the door (in my case the left edge) and glue and pin the ply to the frame using 25mm panel pins. Then, with someone assisting, gently bend the plywood around the curve and pin and glue as you go. Again, leave to dry overnight. Once the first layer has dried, take the second piece of 3.2mm plywood and coat one side of this and the outside of the skin you’ve already attached to the frame with EvoStick contact adhesive. Once this is tacky, carefully place the left hand edge over the door frame and clamp in place. With assistance, gently bend the second layer of plywood around the door, clamping it in place as you go, until it’s all done. Leave the clamps in place for 24 hours. I then pinned two balsa wood strips on the bottom and middle inside of the door as retainers for the shelves (like you’d have on the inside of a fridge door) to hold small bottles, packets etc. When it’s all dry, you can then remove the clamps and trim the door skin carefully to size. You’ll be left with a lovely smooth surface which, in my case I primed and undercoated several times by brush, rubbing down between each coat, and finished with several coats of Rustoleum spray paint, gently flattened between each. The door is then attached with a piano hinge to the frame. I’d recommend making the door first then making the frame, as you can always trim the frame to suit the contours of the curved door. That’s it really… I’ll take some more detailed photos tomorrow. Good luck!
http://www.jacksonsleisure.com/kitchen-equipment/?sort=featured&page=2 Jackson Leisure.com have the Smev 8821 for £129.95
The mixer tap on the Smev 8821, either cold water or hot and cold.....Stupid Question 402 ...... What do you run to get the hot water, does it come from the gas bottle?
Ohhhh So does that mean that the other place works out cheaper then? Poop just almost ordered that!!!!
For the mixer on the tap to work you would need a water heater to feed the hot tap, not worth it, too expensive to buy and run and takes up too much space
Thank you for your reply and also for not taking the p**s out of my silly question and saving a girls blushes!
@Lardy Thanks for the tip off with ExtremeVan, I've just ordered the Smev 8821 full bundle...Happy Days
