Heater question.

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Poptop2, Oct 9, 2013.

  1. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    So just to be clear save faffing - undo the hose at the bottom ( can't see any connection from above btw) then undo the handbrake screws and it will come off?

    Where is it secured at the bottom then?
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    No hoses. The totem sits on a short metal tube, then 2 screws at top and plastic vent pipe on the top.
     
  3. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Cheers ste:thumbsup:
     
  4. Forgive them as they dont know!!! your heater tube is metal and you cant actually take it off but you can disconnect the totem at the top and take it out.. As I say - from memory as I chopped the front bit out and fitted a flexi so as to fit my fan.
     
    Poptop2 likes this.
  5. anyone ever fitted an axial fan in the totem?:thinking:
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Or you could just crowbar it out like you did the firewall. ;)
     
  7. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Why? Plenty air comes out anyway...
     
  8. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    You couldn't tell if I hadn't told you!
     
  9. guess that might be noisy!
     
  10. bin listening coz o want ta change my totem pole for another that actually has flap in it, so those two screws once undone do they afect handbrake ?? sorry i havnt attempted job yet so i might be talking c rap excuse if i am , i will look before i do it. also coz o dont have a flap i a dont think their is a cable?? lever?? so can i just use spring loaded lever on totem pole instaed as wont be using it that much ?? sorry for hi jack malc .:thumbsup:
     
  11. Shhh! I'm trying to give @poptop2 ideas....;)
     
  12. only in so far as the totem and H/brake support bracket share the same fasteners...
     
  13. cheers :thumbsup:
     
  14. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    It won't work - I'm too thick for subliminal influence.
     
  15. @zed ...i think the perceived need to fit aux fans to boost output is mainly due to the fact that the stock system is usually not very well set-up in the first place, plus the replacement parts available are sub standard IMO (concertinas etc.) it's a very simple job to look at the original design and improve on it, by insulating the ducting, minimizing heat loss where appropriate, adjusting the heater control flaps properly etc. etc.
    If someone were to offer an upgraded kit instead of the usual cr*p, It'd be money well spent.
    Take the standard metal tube for instance...zero insulation! How easy would it be to lag it, and heat shrink??? add £20 on the asking price???
     
    Barneyrubble likes this.
  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    All metal heating tubes originally came with a lagged canvas jackets held on with press studs or nylon zips (apart from the one under the front belly pan).
    Stopping the leaks is the thing, both in the pipes and the door seals. I thought my westy pipe ok until I did a leak test and it had huge holes, but inside the cross members where you couldn't see them. I then took off the canvas coat from the main tube to find I didn't have a main tube, just a canvas jacket and rust flakes! When I got it sorted rust flakes showered out of the vents when I gave it some revs for weeks after, but it didn't get warm inside the van until I replaced the door seals - particularly the slding door one as the bottom section had gone awol.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Oct 11, 2013
  17. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Yes they did - well remembered!
     
  18. i often wondered why they didnt put a pre lagged pipe especially for colder climates.
     
  19. [​IMG]

    That's what you think...;)
     

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