Front outer chassis repair?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Kerrin Wells, May 16, 2020.

  1. One of the last big jobs to do on the bay, is to replace the front outer diagonal right hand chassis section.the bit that’s on the outside of the steering box.

    Has anybody done it and got any tips. I was going to patch it but it will look a mess and it’s honestly too far gone. There is a YouTube video from a chap in North Wales who does his, but his floor is out and there is good access, my floor is spot on so I don’t want to make the job bigger than it needs to be. I can take the steering box back off easy enough as I only just changed it.

    Are the Schofields solid repair panels best, or Custom and Classsic, do a split one for the same price, that you need to weld together. The postage to the Isle of Man is nearly as much as the panel from Schofields, so is there any other panels I need, to go with the chassis piece? As ever, thanks for the help. I can get photos if needed.
     
  2. Barry Haynes

    Barry Haynes I dance in leopard skin mankini’s

    If it's a show bus then replace it but it's going to be a right bar steward, no one's going to see it so patch it if possible:thumbsup:
     
  3. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    I did mine right up to the inner valance both sides some time back. I have to admit it would have been a pig but the deformation panel was off so it was easier. I’ve just tried accessing Photobucket for some pictures but I couldn’t log on. The steering box was easy enough and I used chassis sections from Vwheritage. I decided to arc weld the chassis section there rather than mig at 150.
     
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I don't think you can do it without taking the floor up - won't it need welding across the top?
     
    Dubs likes this.
  5. Yes, I think that’s the bit that is worrying me. I was thinking if it’s only rotten at the bottom, I could chop it horizontally and weld in the lower half of the repair. I’m pretty confident of my welding as long as I can find sound metal to stitch it on to. I can make up repair patches if not.
     
    snotty and Zed like this.
  6. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    Unfortunately I had no problems getting at it from above as there wasn’t much floor left. The bits of floor we had that we kept we seam welded the outrigger to from below. I then patched the floor panel.

    I have to say that was the most difficult job on my resto.
     
  7. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Administrator

    I also took the front beam off for access and to repair that.
     
  8. matty

    matty Supporter

    I ended getting the repair panel and cutting it length ways so I didn’t need to take the floor up
     
  9. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    You should be able to weld it i without lifting the floor if you use the 2 piece chassis from Schofields, it’s actually not all that hard
     
  10. I wouldn’t patch it or arc weld it . If you do a decent job it will last instead of keep revisiting it
     
  11. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor supporter extraordinaire

    I would have the floor up personally. That way you can get all round it nicely, and replace the gusset (snigger) that spans the two chassis sections under the floor.

    You will probably find a bulge on the cab floor anyway, where the aforementioned gusset is swelling with corrosion.
     
    Zed likes this.
  12. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Like my techenders video ..
     
  13. After lying under the bus for a short time yesterday, I have found it is only rotten at the bottom, the floor and upper chassis section is ok. I think I will order the replacement Schofields panel, and then give it another dose of looking at. The decent mig welder is up at my dads house, as he is rebuilding a mk2 Escort, and needs me to go up, when restrictions are relaxed, and weld his car. Then I can bring the welder home and crack on. Although I may take the camper there as his garage is much bigger.
     
    mikedjames, Zed and Dubs like this.

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