Indeed. 260F - way to hot. 240F - slow down for half an hour 220F getting hot 200-220 OK. 200 - nice.
Serviced the ict34 carbs and re set but not massively confident. Going to do them properly over the weekend with help. Put in fuel pressure reg. running at 2.5 or there abouts
Have to say ...... none of this would have been possible without the help of this community so a big thanks!!!!!!
That's all good but now it's overheating for some reason and assuming it wasn't before...something you did is almost certainly the cause. Could be air leak, lack of fuel, timing. I think you said you "cleaned the points". * Did you set or check timing afterwards? Any change in points gap will alter the timing. *Think I imagined that.
I have pertronix ig so didn’t touch anything on that side. Could be timing but might be a garage job as not done that before. Might be air leak but carbs def bolted down ok. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oil level is low just noticed I have some 10 40 Syntheric in van is thaT ok to use to get home then complete oil change Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]
Don't mix synthetic with mineral. Yes low oil doesn't help cooling, there's not a lot in there even when it's full.
Ok I’ll just get home slowly and change the oil it’s 30 mins and I can stop thanks for the help Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Having said that, if it's really low, any oil is better than none so I'd top up, potter home then change it.
You realise that dropping the fuel pressure.with a regulator .may have caused the float level to drop in the carburettor. You need to reset the level or your engine will be running leaner than before. That may be a cause of the 125 C oil temperature. As your pressure regulator is downstream of rhe pump it doesnt matter whether its placed high or low in the engine bay. 2PSI is about .13 bar which is a lift of 1.7 metres for a 0.75 S.G. liquid. The syphon issue will be on the suction side of the pump where you want the petrol to flow under gravity to the pump, without airlocks forming in high loops.
Thanks Mike when you say reset the level what do you mean?? Assume I know nothing I won’t be offended !!! Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I don't think Mike has that quite right or I've misunderstood his point. You don't set the float level based on fuel pressure. If the pressure is low it would show up under high load like a long motorway hill and would misfire/loose all power until you back off the accelerator a bit. Pressure should be set with the engine running and if you could watch it, will always be less when driving it. Really you need to set it high enough so it doesn't drop so far that it can't keep up on the hills. Under those conditions where it's most likely to run short the fuel level in the bowl doesn't matter - the fuel supply is from the bottom of the bowl and the level in the emulsion well is governed by the jets.
I was more trying to make the point that if you are running high pressure fuel, the original metering valves dont stop it as effectively if they were tending to leak before replacement. Anyway, after messing with a carburettor, its a simple job on many to hold the top plate vertical and measure how far away the float hangs from the top, and bend things until it is at the specified spacing. The force that holds the fuel back is the float rising in the float chamber - if there is a leak it doesnt ever properly stop, so the fuel level goes higher. Either that allows more fuel into the main jet (for the same vacuum in the throttle venturi it will be lifting fuel up a shorter distance) for a given air flow, or it just runs out of the overflow into the manifold . Fitting new metering valves and reducing the fuel pressure will reduce the fuel level at which the pump pressure can be blocked by the needle valve, so the fuel level will drop, if the valves were leaking a bit. As for loss of power on a hill through loss of petrol flow and pressure, its one reasoin why the Carter style pumps are better, they pump directly to the carburettor input , and bleed back fuel only if the output pressure goes higher than the required pressure. (shunt regulation) So even if the pump can only manage 3psi at full fuel flow, you still get 3 psi at the carburettor. Apart from cooling the fuel pump with cool petrol round its motor armature and brushes, and stopping fuel boiling in the fuel feed lines to the injectors, its another reason why the FI systems always have a fuel return with a simple pressure relief valve returning fuel to the tank. You need excess pressure on the input side of the inline (series regulation) "scuba demand valve style" pressure to lift the diaphragm in the regulator against a spring, before you can get the pressure build up in the output side pushing back on the other side of the diaphragm to cause the valve in the regulator to begin regulating pressure. So a pump that can only push 3psi at full flow will be losing pressure in the workings of the fuel pressure regulator. You would need a few PSI more to open the valve initially. Also when the inline regulator starts to leak or made badly, it becomes totally worthless, as the pressure on the output side can reach pump pressure for a tiny leak in the regulator when the carburettor is not drawing fuel.
