Two jobs finished today: First one was to patch in a couple of repairs to the tops of the chassis legs, so they're now ready for the engine 'cheeks' or side panels to be welded back in. Second job was to attach the original left-hand engine side panel to the Schofield-supplied top panel... would have been much easier if Schofields rolled the edge and put a lip on it so I had to fabricate these myself, but I'm pleased with the outcome. Need to do the same for the right-hand side next.
Thanks for checking, Zedders... yes, the whole side panel is original, including the part stamped with the chassis number, it's only the top panel - the bit that welds to the top of the chassis leg - that's new! Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Today, it was time to sort the right-hand engine side panel... original "cheeks" to new top piece from Schofields. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Today I was hoping to replace the right hand lower D-Post so cut out the old one and started to cut some rot out from the end of the rear valance. Unfortunately, there was too much rot so I ordered a new inner and outer valance from Schofields. As I couldn't go any further on the rear panels I decided to crack on with the left hand rear arch. After cutting out the old one I realised the sill was too far gone to save - which wasn't a surprise really - so ordered a full set for both sides from Schofield's. Not a lot to show today, but here are some piccies. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Not a lot to show today. I started making repair patches for the LH tub but don't want to weld them in until I've got the outer skin ready to fit. Spent the rest of the day de-rusting and priming, but on the positive, the LH lower C-post was in much better condition than I'd imagined... taken a bit of a knock at some point, but no rust! Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Amazing work dude.. Got loads done.. I had exactly the same. Rear quater repairs just laid over the rust and welded... Both sides chassi rear legs and trays. Fun and games. Lower D's and inner/outer valance. Though im keeping the valance off atm as im dojng a tdi conversion and makes it easier to wheel the motor in and out i guess. All the best Sent from my YAL-L41 using Tapatalk
While you have the rear in pieces, check out the current fuel gauge thread and my description of a connector from the sender that you might regret not cleaning up when it's all back together. Piece of cake now... nightmare when you're engine is back in.
Thanks Steve... found it, and have pasted below for the benefit of anyone else doing a tidy up while their engine's out! The wire from the gauge leaves the loom and is routed via the wheel tub, probably to maintain the firewall. Just inside the area accessed by the paint tin lid there is connector - Aha! That connector has sat there corroding a little for 40+ years. I guess damp tracks up the wire. You can see where I'm going with this. I unplugged it and plugged it in a few times to clean it up a bit, satisfied myself that the connectors were tight, fitted my sensor out of the box and my gauge reads exactly full when it's full. If one's gauge is under reading this is another place to look for that added resistance. Sadly you'd be lucky to even get a photo of this connector through the paint tin lid hole and it's quite close to where it emerges from the tub... Cleaning it up with one hand blind through the lid hole is a bit of an ask...impossible I'd wager... so it's an engine, firewall and maybe even tank out job to get two hands on the little sucker.
Can't believe it's taken around two days of fettling to finally get the rear valance fitted. Not much to show, but I'm glad it's in and everything's lined up! Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Managed to finish off the right hand lower D post repair and get the outer valance welded on. Good to get some proper new metal on at last! Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Good welding skills there. I’ve become a bit of a welding ‘stalker’ as I’ve not being doing it long and like to see what others have been up to. Interesting - your comment about gas as I’m currently using the small disposable canisters. I’ve got a sill to repair / replace next and hope my hobby set up will be up to it. Stirlingmoz
Thanks Stirlingmoz... From my perspective, there are two issues with the disposable bottles: 1) They are really expensive by comparison and don't last very long... being a bit of a tight arse, I probably never opened the valve enough so guess I used too little gas as I was always worried about them running out. 2) I never had a regulator for the hobby bottles so never really knew what the flow rate was Having a decent sized cylinder with a regulator makes all the difference for me! Good luck with your sills... they're on my 'to do' list too. Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
Started on the left hand sill by stripping the outer sill from the back. Got quite excited as it looked like the inner and middle sills could be saved but then, after stripping the rest of the outer sill, realised the rot was much worse at the front, so it'll all have to come off. Just as well I'd already bought a full sill kit from Schofields. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Do you think that inner will has been replaced previously? It looks like the top part was left attached to the floor? I would do that again if you can, it saves a lot of messing about and the replacement parts I've used don't fit well to the floor underside.
Funny you should ask that, Steve... I was wondering if that might be a possible. What do you reckon, leave the back of the inner sill in place and simply cut out the bottom part? All I'd need to do then is trim the new inner sill along the bend and seam weld it in place. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
The vertical part - which attaches to the outriggers and floor - is fine, as is most of the bottom... just the front 18 inches of the bottom that would need to be replaced. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
