No pics coming up @Dicky Not sure what structure is under the side belly pans. Have you fitted directly to the tophats or have you devised some bracketery!
I managed to get under the bus briefly this morning. Reducer now siliconed and self tappered in place. Offered up the heater to see where it best fits between cables etc.
Should be there now.mmines a bit unusual in that it has plates between the tophats but if it didnt id be fitting brackets longitudinally to the top hats and fixing to that possibly.
As I can't weld (yet) I was thinking of riveting some longitudinal plates to the top hats so that I can then bolt the heater to the plates so that it is easy to remove for servicing, underselling etc.
See if you can find vanoraks install. You expecting to put the belly pan back on? Thinking underside of top hat is top of chassis rail so fixing something over chassis rail will lse you a few mm. Ie inderside will be sam level as underside of top hat. Some flat bar across the top possibly?
I will have a search for @vanorak s install, thanks. Yes was hoping to refit belly pan although the guy at Propex said it will need reshaping or a hole cut in it but may because they put brackets in there!
Mine seems lower in places but perfectly feasible to just measure how much lower it needs to be and just space it off with some box section or similar. Its not like its a sealed thing . Will help protect your heater. Mine will get very wet behind the wheel like that but intended to fit mudflaps. sooner rather than later might be appropriate I think. Also wondering whether to do some tinbashing to the side belly pan to help and get rid of some nooks and crannies. Anyway. Rain stopped play here a while back so no further progress. Was hoping to have it connected up to gas albeit via flexible hose but that means another hole somewhere and some time scanning underneath for an appropriate place. Also dont have exhaust and feed pipes for burner yet. Wont stop me running it but at least i can measure up and order the right thing when propex open in the new year. Have you thought about how your going to switch it when your driving? I want my stat etc in the rear for camping but as i want to run it when im driving i want to be able to switch from the cab. Need an override switch but not sure how to wire that in. Im assuming you can do this as they do a 7 day programmer for the rest of the range of heaters and all that does is switch it on and off. You shouldnt really switch the permanent feed as it needs that for its diagnostics and purging. Dont suppose youve got any wiring instructions other than the standard book? I have also had a flash of inspiration regards demisting. If i put a y peice into the main tube and instead of blowing the van heating air out of the walkthrough i could use it to suck warm air from the back of the van which is already heated by the propex and blow it on the screen. Ive got a fan at the bottom of the totem (bilge blower thing) so even without the exchangers on it would recirc the air onto the screen.... Havent thought of a downside yet! Would mean i wouldnt need any duct into the front to direct warm air there. Wondering if i was to puy a y piece in the pipe from the walkthrough to the original diverter then if i Switch the fan off and switch exchangers one it would then blow warm air out of the duct instead of sucking it in! Perhaps the standard valve connection might suffice! Worth a try.
Question! As you have access to your diverter valve. When its in the position to put air into walkthrough does the flap just open or does it actually extend into the airflow of the main heater tube to divert the air?
I had thought that it is probably possible to use spacers on one side of the belly pan - like you say it will give the heater some protection. Not sure on switch location yet. Instructions say ideally 1.5m above floor so thinking possibly near top of b pillar. I am thinking I will be able to operate controls by feel as not too complicated! However my plan is to initially put controller in a box on flying lead so I can try different locations! Instructions say not to fit a override switch! There are no additional wiring details other than main fitting instructions. I think I will need to order some longer pipes. I am not sure the standard exhaust and feed pipes are going to be long enough for me as the connection will be on near side of heater unit. By time I have looped them around the unit I don't think they will be near the offside sill!
Impatience got the better of me. Run it up on gas and electric. No exhaust or fresh air vents. Runs great and output as expected. Was noisier than i expected having had an old model fitted internally and comparing it with that but put a temporary exhaust pipe on and that reduced the noise and vibration noticeably so hopefully that can only improve with the proper bits attached. I have the black, foil lined heater duct for the blown air. Mines inside the van, it gets bally hot on the outside so if fitting it outside i suggest insulating it or your going to lose some heat. Im guessing an externally mounted and ducted heater would be quieter. Tried some different duct, the plastic corrugated stuff, it seemed a little quieter. im possibly at a bit of and empasse for now as need to get the right bits. Guess i shoud plan the box to cover the outlets. Was tepted to have very little ducting involved in that but it needs something to quiten it down.
Might be better to get the correct exhaust etc pipes and then see if you need to have longer internal ducting or not.
Im thinking the same for my controller. Possibly a double socket backbox with a blanking plate cut out for the stat. Wish i had somewhere dry to play with it tbh. Read the bit about not putting a switch in the main power feed. It needs to be incorporated into the wiring loom. Probably not difficult as peeps domit on hs2000 but wiring seems different on mine and dont want to short anything expensive out. That would not be good!
That was just a trial fit of ducting! Hoping to only have about 6-8 inches from heater. But I will be insulating it all in something once I know it is all working ok!
The pics in the thread below are self explanatory: http://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/heating.44613/#post-780722 I made a cage from ali flat bar and stainless stud to support the unit from beneath. The stud is held in situ by more flatbar which slides between the tophat section and the floor...this isn't absolutely necessary but it meant I could install the propex exactly where I needed it. I also made a new branch pipe so I could vent the heated air into the walkway and draw recirculated air thru the dash vents...works a treat. Ground clearance isn't altered and the central bellypan fits over the unit no probs...you'll need to make a couple of holes in it for the intake and exhaust pipes
Cheers @vanorak. What would you suggest - something like 4/5mm flat bar and M6 stud? Did you reroute things like throttle cable, clutch cable etc?
