You need to make neg lead with a nut and bolt on then bolt it to one of the 4 holes that are used to bolt the engine in. For your jump leads
So I took some of everyone’s advice and “almost” had it running well it was running for a few seconds and was coughing and spluttering so I’m gonna try and tweak the timing tomorrow I set up a fuel tank instead of throwing petrol into the carb so hopefully tomorrow I can get it running
Coughing and sputtering when feeding straight into the carb ... it'll be running in no time tomorrow Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Last question I promise when I do the static timing is it done at TDC or 7.5 degrees it’s a distributor with vacuum advance on it thanks
Might be worth a pic of pulley.. from my faint type 1 memory there's a few notches... a TDC on the front lip and couple of timing marks on the back lip ? Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
I’m sure my one only has the front mark and one on the back lip but I’m heading into garage shortly and will check Thanks for the reply
If there's only one and clockwise from the front 'dent most likely the 7.5 BTDC if it's anticlockwise you might have a 5 ATDC pulley.. my old beetle has one of those till I put a super snazzy EMPI degree pulley on that made it go so much faster... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
If there's one notch on the back use that for static if there's two use the closest to the white blob on the front Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Set the static on that mark and it almost went so I loosened the distributor turned it a fraction as I was turning the engine over and away it went running No sure if that was the right thing to do but it worked lol
Resurrected from an old post of mine elsewhere - VW produced pulleys with a large variety of timing marks for different engines, and for different local emission/fuel quality requirements. It follows that a 40 year old engine may not have the correct pulley, probably having been rebuilt more than once. Never trust pulley marks on a new-to-you engine. Find and mark the TRUE TDC. Ignore the "pencil-through-the-plughole" method, it's inaccurate. Mash out the insides of a spark plug and insert a length of threaded rod through it secured by a nut on either side. Adjust this so that about 10mm protrudes further into the cylinder than a spark plug would. Insert this into the plug hole (cylinder 1) and turn the engine by hand until the piston jams against the rod. Draw a temporary mark on the pulley where it lines up with the crankcase centre. Turn the engine the other way until the piston again jams against the rod and again mark the pulley. True TDC lies EXACTLY halfway between the 2 marks. I've filed a large new notch on my pulley and scratched "TDC" on it for future reference. You now have a true TDC mark you can trust for the life of the engine. ----------------- To time for a vacuum advance distributor…. Get the engine running and warm at whatever timing works. Disconnect and plug the vacuum tube. Set the timing so that maximum advance when revved hard is 28 degrees BTDC. No need to make a second timing mark. I’ve treated myself to an adjustable strobe light for £30 – just dial up 28 degrees and turn the distributor until your new TRUE TDC mark lines up with the crankcase centre. Should run like a dream now, mine does
I have an engine manual listing about 4 arrangements of notches for the pulley depending on its application. The 7.5 degrees position may or may not be one of the notches at the back, best way to check is to take the diameter of the pulley, 170 mm multiply by pi×7.5/360 = 11 mm to the right of the big white marker. As the engine rotates clockwise, the big marker will be 11mm left of the engine seam at 7.5 degrees btdc.. Or just set the dial on the timing gun to 7.5 degrees if it has an adjustment, and line the white marker up with the engine seam..
This type 1 I have been playing with has a ali pulley on, TDC the keyway is at bang on 9 oclock position
Yep, TDC will be when the keyway is at 9 o'clock. There are two TDCs: on the compression stroke, and at the end of the exhaust stroke.