One of the captive nuts in my deformation panel is a bit mangled I can wind the bolt in but as soon as you start tightening it it jumps and loosens off. I think they are m8 Can I carefully open them up to m10 by winding a m10 tap along the original threads or will I have to drill it first then tap it? I’m trying to avoid having to cut and weld the deformation panel. Also a section of my roo bar uses the original deformation bolt holes So probably would benefit going up a bolt size
You can do that, if it M10 x 1.5mm pitch you need an 8.5mm drill to clean the old thread up. Chase it with an M10 taper tap followed by the M10 bottom tap..but you’ll already know that.
I'd try a tap first, so you get a bit of meat on the threads. If it jams, drill it for M10 tapping. If the whole thing falls off, stick a rivnut in it.
If we hit that issue at work, we would drill first and try to get as squared up as possible then tap it. We do that with fixtures for the test rigs at work & it tends to resolve the issue ok. M27 threads can be tricky though
I’ve ran an M8 tap through it already With it having the weight of the roo bar along with the bumper I’d rather it have something stronger than a rivnut I’ll try running an M10 tap through it and see what happens. If it doesn’t hold then I’ll have to break out the mig.
Drill it out for a steel M8 rivnut? Aint perfect but better than an M10 tap into a wonky nut which would be meaning you also have to drill the bumper. If its a roo bar maybe make a fixing for that off a chassis rail.. I hate that bit when all the lovely paint you put inside some box section starts burning until it runs out of air when you weld it after prepping the no longer accessible surface with paint..
I don’t mind drilling the bumper It does attach to the chassis rails and the front bumper bolts as well.
I don’t think there’s enough meat on the captive nut to drill and tap it to fit a helicoil Thanks for the suggestion though
