Cylinder Head Temperature Gauge - Should I? & or Air Fuel Ratio

If you mean the VW jim one, I can tell you what sensors it needs and how to extend. I have a spare one in my stash with a label on it.

 

I went for the gauge and cable option rather than just cables on their own.
So 2 gauges. Each gauge has 5 metres of cable and a 14mm ring terminal on the end.
I measured from the back of the engine near the bumper (the two spark plugs are further forward than this).
Plus the dash isn't a metre from the floor - I so hope to have some wiggle room.

 

http://www.skydrive.co.uk/proddetail.asp?prod=CH005
I've sacked the needle gauge idea off now, as I was worried that I wouldn't be able to get thermocouple cables that would actually work with the gauges.
The gauge looks exactly the same as the VW Jim one.

 

That looks identical to the one I got from eBay for my beetle. It works, but reads 30 degrees lower than the bbq probe i checked it with at normal running temp. 120 degrees on the probe, 90 on the gauge.

I had to bend the sensor a bit to get it to fit on number 1 plug (type 4 engine), so I don’t know if that buggered it up. Anyway, now I know this information, I just check it occasionally to make sure it hasn’t got hotter.

 

Thanks that is useful.
Im pretty sure they also sell on ebay.

@PanZer suggested it and a few people on samba also have them

 

Interesting. I’ve not set mine up yet - not even close to - but am already concerned about accuracy. However, as others have said, it’s trends & changes that need monitoring rather than absolute accuracy. That is, so long as it doesn’t immediately state the aluminium is softening.

There is, in the manual, a correct way to bend the sensor. Might be worth seeing if you did it the suggested way.


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Just out of interest what numbers are you going to use for ‘normal’, ‘it’s too hot’, ‘oops it’s stopped’?

 

That’s a question i’ve no answer for. Which just so happens to be the most pertinent one.
Whatever you guys tell me.

Since I’ll have EGT too, plus AFR telling me i’m at least running that correctly. It may be a somewhat cross-referenced stab in the dark for determining limits.

It will be better than flying blind, but probably akin to still having some seriously tinted shades on.


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Get in, drive it. Your engine’s not going to blow up.

 

Well that’s just typical, as i ordered an inflatable one!
Seriously...can’t win can I!


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There are instructions on how to fit the cht sender on the website.

They look very clear.

Try the ring around a spark plug before attempting to fit it as well.

 

I'm just going to look at /record what numbers I get.

Then if I notice a big difference in the numbers one day, I'll investigate possible issues further.

I think on the Samba they talk about 400 or 420f being OK for short periods.

 

http://www.itinerant-air-cooled.com...id=5cb1a8c7eab063c23858d9b11f55ef1d&start=150

I had this one opne, but had shut the samba threads

 

I back off at 420F, but I don’t know how accurate the gauge is. I was just interested to know what others think is good or bad.

 

I put this up earlier but it got lost along the way. Might become relevant to Paul before too long.

The thermocouple cable (K Type) on our sensors has pretty serious insulation (fiberglass braiding with stainless steel overbraiding). I’ve been assuming that is due to the high temperatures at the source e.g Cylinder Head and Exhaust.

I make too many wrong assumptions, so some questions:
•The cables don’t actually carry a temperature, just a ‘signal’, so can they be safely put inside a conduit alongside normal 12v cables to the gauges?
•Do the cable insulations actually help guard against electric noise interfering with accuracy?
•Apart from by the sensors (which i’m not doing anything with), can normal 12v heat shrink tubing be used to tidy up connections?

Thanks all.


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Pure mechanical protection, the wires inside are quite weedy. You can buy it by the metre to make your own.

I don't think they are susceptible to interference, I'm sure I read that somewhere.
They carry almost zero current, heat shrink is fine.

BUT you are talking about the copper extensions? You do not want to bundle up the cold junctions on the thermocouples (the other end braided part).

 

Any updates?
There are these as a possibility:


Supposedly reduce Head temperature by up to 15•
€139
Sold out right now.

Can’t remember who on here bought a pair.
Without gauges you’d never know if they actually cooled anything rather than just looked cool.


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I’ve got a pair of the CSP equivalents. I’ve no idea if they cool the heads (more likely cool the oil up to the heads). They do look nice, tho’

 

Nice.
Mine look like Err Mmm Probably Iffy ones.


An easy upgrade further down the road though.

@paulcalf are yours black?
I’ve read it makes a difference to the heat dissipation.


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Mine were 'black' with dirt and crud, until I cleaned them the other day.

I doubt they have any real impact on cooling