You do know that you can buy what you need new? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/29350928...35874&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21697363421
Yes, I might have surmised that, but the second hand unit cost a good deal less. However, in my case I didn't know how the breather is connected - I'd thought it went into the crank case. This is all a bit of a learning curve for me... My filler neck is completely after market (that part you linked to might not fit it) so I thought it'd be best just to get a complete unit.
That's why you're here - to ask advice? The part I linked to would fit, it's a stock one for your stock alternator stand. Best to ask advice as it's a new type of vehicle to you, even when the answer seems obvious. There are plenty offerings out there that are not the best choice.
A stock filler will fit after you've removed the chrome job (although as @Zed said, getting the "nut" undone might be a tussle). On the one you've bought, just saw the long pipe off and cap it off.
The thing is - that system relied on the down tube as well as the connection to the air filter. When the downtube was discontinued, no doubt to prevent oil on roads which motorcyclists in particular do not appreciate, the connection to the air filter got a lot bigger to compensate. I postulate that blocking the downtube will leave you with too smaller connection to the air filter, maybe not much better than the aftermarket one already on the motor. It will certainly not be as good as it could be.
Excellent that's the one you need ,keep the same breather hose ID to the carbs and you will be fine ,Eurocarb have the right size angle fitting to mount in the air cleaner tops as far as I can recall,job done. This will relieve you of your venting issue ,if not you may need to do a compression test as your rings may not have been "bedded in" properly and the bores are glazed ....I hope this isn't the case ?. Can you show a pic of the old cracked head that will indicate what heads you have ,cheers.
I think I found the major oil leak… Yes, it's the crank oil seal behind the pulley! Hooray! (Not) It's a pity there's no seal carier like on my Twin Cam. So.. I'm looking at an engine out alteady, but first I think I will fit a standard oil pump (it's got a high pressure one at the moment, "SCAT 26mm HP HC oil pump") and the breather, wash off all the old oil and grease and take it for a test run. Could be the combination of crankcase pressure and high pressure oil pump is not doing me any favours here, and the seal may be OK, just being overcome. There are a couple of additional observations. There is a lot of oil all over the engine but mostly underneath, where it's quite wet. I can see that it has come from the crank seal. I did clean off the extended sump when I first got the van and this has stayed clean so far. The oil in the engine bay is old and sticky, like grease. So I'm wondering if it's historic. There is certainly a leak now, but is it as catastrophic as a crank seal? I noted the (alloy) cylinder head covers seemed pretty dry and leak free. If that is really the case I won't disturb them.
You're quite right, Zed! But I'm too keen to get on, and I do not really know what the right part looks like. Only, someone posted a picture on my wanted thread of another filler with a much smaller tube on it. Thing is, it looks different to the chromed one I have and it's got some bends in it. So.. which one is right? You can see the dillema I hope. I don't really want to be starting threads asking which part I need.. you'd all be getting fed up with me in no time!
We will never get fed up, we love this stuff! The short answer is if it has a drop tube, either use the drop tube or discard the whole thing and get one with no drop tube and a bigger connection to the filter. Your tinware doesn't have a hole for the drop tube? That's because the drop tube was discontinued IIRC in the late 60's. What to do? Adjust your tinware or get the right oil filler.
Maybe but the combustion chamber shape and volume could be different. EDIT; I don’t know much about Type 1, just enough to know I don’t want one, but are all type 1 heads the same regardless of whether they are from Germany, Mexico, Brazil or aftermarket?
No, but we don't know any details other than one head was replaced because it was cracked. At least we can assume it was replaced with the same valve size, so then we know the valve size. As you say, T1 heads available these days have a wide range of combustion chamber designs, far more variety than ourType-4, but we have to assume like for like because it would be the sensible efficient strategy.
It would certainly be a sensible strategy to replace like with like, but the rest of the engine isn’t particularly sensible.
Someone wanted a bigger engine without machining, it's not so different to the general approach you took for your engine, where mine is more the type-4 equivalent of a 1776. Are you suggesting my approach was the sensible one? Or perhaps it's the cam you refer to?
Yes Westy, please explain. If it’s the cam, I do still have the original. I need torque rather than power at higher revs. So bearing that in mind, what should I change? Oh, as an aside. I removed the heat exchanger (thus, the whole exhaust) to fit the new exhaust stud. Not surprised to discover exhaust gasses have blown by all the (metal) gaskets, the exchanger itself was loose and the joints to the 4 into 1 Quiet Pack manifold were all suspect. It’s no wonder the bugger’s so noisy!
There is no oil seal behind the pulley on a Type 1. There is an oil slinger, assuming it's been put on the right way round. Any leak may be caused by excessive crankcase pressure.
Here's a pic of the innards of a Type 1. There's virtually nothing in it: they're simple beasts. As you can see, there's no oil seal at the front. Engine out and get spannering if you want to change the cam (what state is your stock cam in?). Not difficult to strip a Type 1 once you get going. Good opportunity to check everything else in your "not sensible " motor, including the bearings etc. Reassembled properly with a smear of non-setting sealant like Curil-T on the case, they shouldn't leak a drop of oil.
