Dunno, Westy. Will see when I get round to it. Meanwhile, have ordered this to deal with potential crank pressure: Hope it’s the right one…
Should add that the engine doesn’t seem too keen to rev past 4500. I think it goes well but I’ve never driven any other (standard) bus so I wouldn’t know.
Kinda. I'd have gone for the later type that didn't have the drop tube, but had a substantially larger upper connector for the pipe to the air filter. In fact, I don't kmow what that is, I've not seen one with such a large dia drop tube.
That might be a dynamo stand, they're different to the alternator ones but I guess you don't need that bit.
Next problem you'll have is both removing and fitting the top part. The "nut" that holds them together is a problematic design, but you can now buy better ones, or a tool like this to remove and fit the original type. These tools work very well.
Thanks Zed. I have many, many tools to try. It’s not obvious to me where the pipe goes, unless there is a cover over the hole in the case. If it’s an alternator stand (seller says it’s compatible with both) so much for the better. I want to fit an alternator anyway. The thing that’s concerning me is the tube shape. I posted a wanted ad on here and there’s a reply showing a filler breather tube that has a rather convoluted bend in the engine end. Given this looks straight, how is it sealed to the crankcase?
See attached for pictures of my oil filler. I can’t see an opening for the breather pipe to go into the crank case. What am I missing…?
The long breather pipe goes down through the tinware and dangles underneath, with a rubber flap valve on the end. The fact you haven't got a hole for it would indicate it's for an earlier bus, not yours. You only need the top bit, anyway. This bit: https://www.ebay.com/itm/166450095930 The dynamo and alternator standa are different, whatever matey says. If you're going to fit an alternator, you'll need the appropriate stand.
A stock engine should easily rev to 5,400 and beyond (to its detriment). Is your throttle cable opening the carbs fully?
Re the heads: as above, take the rocker covers off. You should see the part number cast into the head. Big valves (if you've got them) aren't goid for a bus engine.
I didn't say it was good for the engine . Mine revs to 6k. Just got to dodge bits of flying crankcase...
Big valves are ok is the engine is designed for them. Stock 1700's have 39.3mm inlet valves. That's maybe why the power doesn't really kick in below 3,000rpm on those though, but they go like stink from there to the 5,400rpm red line.
well, you did quote exactly the Type-4 red line. I think it's always pertinent to remind Type-1 based engine owners not to go crazy unless they have a counterweighted crank/aluminium case etc. Stock Type-1's I've owned totally give up accelerating around 4,500rpm and sound like they're very unhappy being asked to do even that. The op's engine should, with it's C35 cam, rev higher than he says it does, but that could be the exhaust, the heat exchangers or the valves. My C35 based one had fat J-tubes, big valves, ali case and much stronger/better balanced Wasser crank. In the end it was annoying though due to the cooling limitations on high speed cruising. IMO it's a bit Sh1t if you can't cruise at much over 60mph with your 135HP when it will hit 70mph easily in 3rd gear.
I don’t get it, sorry. The top bit needs the pipe into the crank case doesn’t it? Otherwise how is the pressure going to get out? Or is it also pulling it from the filler neck? Hopefully it will be obvious when the part arrives.
I meant the long pipe that goes down through the tinware. It doesn't go into the crankcase at the bottom. It just dangles in the slipstream.
This x2 Crankcase fumes are vented up the filler neck, not from down below in the case. The long pipe on your bit isn't connected to anything under the tinware (apart from a rubber flapper).
Partly. The bottom of the drop tube is meant to have a rubber one way valve on it to drip oil on the road. Breather gases are meant to go up to the air cleaner on an 18mm ID hose from the upper fitting. Later models delete the drop tube because dripping oil on the road isnt friendly. (Like there isnt often a load coming off the crank seal) But the later oil fillers seem to be hard to find. They may have also used them on a Golf, mine appears to have a later plastic cap.. Stock air cleaners have a weighted flap in the airflow to drop the pressure slightly upstream of where the breather goes into the air cleaner pipework.
Ah right, thanks. I expect some sort of catch tank is in order, or maybe I should just cut and block it off.
