Hello again! I wanted to share with you the list the PO gave me when he dropped my T2 off and ask some questions. Here goes:- CB Performance 4140 Steel Forged 76mm Crankshaft (VW Journal) SCAT PRO-STREET FORGED 1.25 RATIO rockers SCAT Big Foot Swivel Adjusting Screws SCAT C35 Camshaft SCAT 26mm HP HC Oil Pump SCAT Lightweight Lifters SCAT PRO-COMP HEAT-TREATED ALUMINUM BOLT-ON CAMSHAFT GEAR SCAT CRANKSHAFT TYPE I GEAR ASSEMBLY KIT EMPI Quiet Pack Exhaust Header Custom 2" stainless steel Exhaust Standard 85.5mm pistons CB Performance IDF Manifolds CB Performance Hex Bar throttle linkage 2x FAJA 40 IDFS 25 Row oil cooler with fan 70'C switch EMPI Remote Oil Filter Oil Cooler Thermostat EMPI 1.5L Sump Extension Oil Temperature gauge, sensor fitted to filter housing. I must confess I don’t know what all of it does but I’m told it’s making a type 1 1600 engine into a 1740cc beast. It certainly goes well, if rather noisy. So to my questions! As it’s not standard, How do you get to the carbs for tuning, balance and the like? It’s all a bit tight in there. I think adjustment is needed because it’s thirsty and sometimes pops and bangs on the overrun. What should the timing be set to? It has electronic ignition that works well. Any comments on the components? Must have cost a fortune was my first thought. It has 6000miles since build and seems to be leaking lots of oil from various spots. Which means, I’ll have to take it out and put new oil seals & gaskets on it, at some point. Same for the gearbox output shaft seals, unfortunately. Can the box be pulled without the engine? Also, why does it sound like it’s got a hole in the exhaust, is that normal? I mean it doesn’t, and has a sparky new MOT to prove it, but it’s noisy!
He seems to bought every bit of bolt-on bling for the engine Carbs: would be nice to know what the jetting is. Should be able to get at the adjustment screws on the sides of the carbs. They will spit if they're running too lean. Where on the engine is it leaking oil? You can't remove the transmission without first removing the engine.
Can’t tell where it’s leaking right now, there is too much oil. I see some evidence of it coming from one of the pushrod tubes though. I take it these carbs are like Webber DCOE 40s but downdraught? A bugger to keep tuned IMHO (which is derived from Lotus Elan ownership). Hence the question! Not sure I can get a Colourtune in there… It has pancake filters (K&N style) which are drawing hot air from the engine bay. Would like a cold air feed, possible?
Cam's a bit much for the cc in a bus. How does it drive at lower revs? The air in the engine bay is not hot until you stop and switch off the engine.
Mine revved to 6,500 and yes, not much going on under 3,000. Mine was bigger cc, ali case and better crank, I wouldn't advise revving yours that high which is kinda why the cam is a bit much as the red line on a type 1 is 4600 which doesn't give it much useful revs.
1745cc according to the PO. With a forged steel crank it should be able to handle more revs? Plus forged rockers & lightweight lifters? Anyway it’s noisy enough at 3000rpm… I’m sure I had it up to 5000 no problem. I think I need to show it to someone, get a better idea… I live Herefordshire - Gloucestershire border if there’s anyone nearby. Reminds me, I should do a compression test. If I can get at the plugs! ..it’s tight in there.
Type 1s aren't intended to take a lot of revs. The stock crank has no counterweights on, not sure if your fancy one has. Keep giving it excessive revs and you'll slowly beat the (relatively soft) crankcase to death...
Unusual engine with standard bore but longer stroke and yes, 85.5mm x 76mm = 1745cc. The C35 cam has too much duration in a relatively small capacity for a bus and it would be a really nice engine for a bug. The spec is more for bhp at high revs rather than good torque at low revs. Do you have any details of the heads?
I can’t find “FAJA” but I found these https://www.amazon.com.au/Carburettor-Carburetor-Engine-Barrel，Compatible-Compatible/dp/B0D14CG494 Chinese copy of Weber IDF’s Me…..personally…….. I have Spanish Webers. Do you know what vent size you have? 60 idles are big for Webers. Rough rule (for IDF’s) according to Jon Connolly (AC.net) was 1.25 x body size. Always worked for me. That would cause it to drink. I would also be removing the EMPI sump extension. You have a remote cooler, so the only benefit of the sump, if plumbed correctly, if better oil pick up in high speed corners. That could be a good place for leaks.
Think you mean "idles", not mains The purpose of a sump extension is for it to get knocked off after driving across a bumpy campsite. Looking at the list, just seems like the bloke bought everything in the shop and slapped them all together. That engine is a bit grubby. Hopefully the case is cleaner on the inside...
+1 for the sump extension, that's really only a benefit if you're racing. "Empi quiet pack" is a euphemism. I would imagine that crank is balanced?
The engine was balanced, but I need to find the receipts to get the details. I don’t rev the nuts off it by the way, but it seems to have long gears so som revving is required. There are those fat air pipes either side of the sump ; they are covered in oil. So I think maybe rocker cover gaskets? It has alloy covers. I also wondered if it has a crank breather as standard, and whether a high pressure oil pump is really necessary. On Twin Cam Lotuses they just make it leak more oil.
Re the oil pump and over pressurising. Do you have a oil pressure gauge to monitor. What oil thickness are you running as you could run a thinner oil. Easy change. .
Over pressurisation, from what I have seen, blows air and oil out behind the bottom pulley. In turn, the pulley throws said oil….. EVERYWHERE You have a pressure relief pipe going from oil filler to carb filter to recycle gases - which is correct. So I don’t believe that is an issue. Bolt on alloy covers are a usual suspects when oil is leaking onto you heater boxes (AKA “fat pipes”) re: deep sump. Someone correct me, but not a simple mater of unbolting? The pick up pipe needs extending when building motor and you would need to split case to revert to stock?
