Compression issue? Parts and guide to fix

Does refacing the lifters not alter the hardness created during the initial cam break in then?

 

I'm really pleased with today's progress,

Gave the case a good clean nothing amazing but got the worst of the grim off.

Set the cam inbetween the 2 dots,
Case back together after a tricky time with the Conrod ended up trying string to them as I lowered the case.
Oil filter and cooler back on.
Waiting on rings and compression tool hopefully Tuesday. Gives me time to clean the pistons,

Hoping davidoft has a head I can steal(in exchange for money) then I will have everything I need to put back together.

What I can say is I am so angry at getting charged 600 for the garage to charge me to set the timing and change the lifters. Told me they were 220 for them I got a set for 80

 

You will need to hone the inside of the barrels before you refit them.

 

Good point ... it was a figure of speech

I had my engine out a few weeks ago for a bit of a tweak ——- it sounded like a bag of spanners when first started ... I’d loosened and not tightened one of the valves when I’d adjusted them ... when sorted it sounded sweet but then again it is the far more superior T1 engine

 

If I was doing a rebuild I definitely would, but they feel silly smooth and no scorch Marks. This is just a repair job for now but I think I will do a full engine rebuild in about 12 to 24 months allow me to properly save up, get a proper space to be able to do it.

Now that the cam is out I can how bad it really was

 

I think you will find the followers have been prefaced by Robert...when I went down he has a trick he uses in his lathe...mine all went back together and sounds so much nicer running

 

Did you use some case sealant? E.g. Curil-T?

 

Eeek I didnt I did tighten the bolts as much as I could making sure not to damage the case

 

You must deglaze the bores; new rings wont seal if you don’t and the engine will burn oil. If you don’t want to bother to deglaze don’t bother to fit new rings.

The case will leak if you haven’t cleaned the joint faces and applied new sealant. And the bolts should be tightened to the correct torque, it will not end well if you just tighten the bolts as much as you can.

 

Seems like it's the cam rather than the lifters that needs the hardening. Rob told me no need for running in, just start it and drive it, so I did.

 

Oh dear this will end in tears me thinks

 

I have to agree. @jameswick89 Stop. Buy a torque wrench 20-80lb/ft. Read a book, even Haynes is good enough for what you're doing. Take a break for a few days and read. No good finding out afterwards what you should have done. The case will pee oil even if you haven't damaged it. You have to seal it, but not with any only thing. Adding even 0.001" sealant will make your bearings too loose and loose oil pressure. etc...etc...etc.

 

Looks like I will be stripped it down again on Monday haha sealant on it's way. Should only take me an hour getting quite good

 

You will need a torque wrench. Beg, borrow or steal one

 

I will spend the day tomorrow reading up. Rest my hands up. Now I have done the scary part of opening it. I am a lot more confident, I think I was rushing becausei was scared. I know that doesn't make much sense haha. I have downloaded the bentley manual I will know it inside out

 

Makes perfect sense, there are a reassuringly small number of parts inside aren't there?

 

When you are cleaning up the mating surfaces don't be tempted to use a scraper or screwdriver or you are likely to scratch it. Only use something that is softer than the case itself, perhaps an old plastic credit card. A wipe down with white spirit might help clean off the old sealant

Edit: and only apply the thinnest smear of sealant. You want the join as tight as possible

 

Yeah I was amazing ever time I have seen and exploded diagrams or just photo, I was like that is far to much for me if I open it something will fall out and I'll never get it back into place but after today everything stays pretty still and well behaved

 

Not a silicone one..

And something like this deglazeses just fine

FreeTec Engine Cylinder Hone 2-7 inch Adjustable 3 inch Blade with 220 Grit Stones Piston Cylinder Hone https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07B3Q8LL6/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_e8xYEbJEAC1RM

As long as it does more than 94mm you'll be good to go.. easy job ..

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