Thanks for all the encouragement.. Here's a bit more progress Attacked the manifolds with wirebrushes.. Same for the heat exchangers The a bit of kurust for a bunch of stuff: Tomorrow going to put a bit of manifold grey on the heat exchangers, manifold bits and bobs..
First coat of manifold grey - think that I will do the inlet manifolds and alternator stand in the same stuff.
Painted the exhaust, inlets, manifold - alternator stand yesterday Headed down to the machine shop today - to get the crank polished, flywheel reground, cam checked and case washed... Fingers crossed Hopefully get it all back by end of wk
Cheers Para - I know I missed a bit on the exhaust, so I will be revisiting them again. I used a combo of a little wire brush from halfords and a largish one from wickes. And went very very gently.. So as not to gouge more of a tickle
Ok the machine shop found the case and crank were out of whack - After having major second thoughts and pondering a different route (a type4 1700 that I had bought sometime ago) I decided to commit to continue with the 1600 case. So as soon as the shells arrive I am off to Winchester to get the case line bored. If they are successful then the crank will be ground and I can start building her up again... Meanwhile I started cleaning up the tin I bought to replace my disintegrated bits And some random fuel / vac pipes and the valve cover clip thingies I also cleanup the heads a bit more I think that I will replace the exhaust valves they a look a little suspect - and two of them leaked a little when I checked them with solvent. I will also check the valve seats, stems and guides for wear. I bought myself this to help Looking at its pretty simple construction so I bet the more inventive on here could probably knock themselves one up pretty easy ;-) I also got myself an lapping device and some paste for the drill so I will be trying that out - any advice on lapping...
Lap your new valves in by hand dude not with a drill Theres less chance of over doing it by hand Couple of blobs of paste around the valve seat and rub the lapping tool between your hands a few times then lift and turn the valve before putting it back down and doing the same again After a few times of doing this wipe the paste away and your looking for a continous grey circle on the valve seat Make sure you clean and remove all traces of grinding paste before rebuilding the head you dont want that abrasive paste mixing with your engine oil
Cheers Para - sadly there was quite a bit of wiggle in the valve stems and the prognosis is that the guides are pretty worn, even for the inlets. So I am outsourcing the work to the machine shop who will install the lot and cut the valve seats Dropped the crankcase with Winchester cranks ;-) due to hols and stuff they don't think they will have it done until week after next On positive note I have my flywheel back and it's nicely ground Should grip a little better now Don't have any before pics but it was very smooth and shiny... Also a new toy Given the engine is going to be in pieces for another month at this rate I need to do some other stuff.. This should be very useful Started draining the fuel tank yesterday but ran out of jerry cans - must have been flush last time I filled up!
Hellooooo! Great to see you here You'll be pleased to know Wiggie is still going strong, has already been for our inaugural camping expedition and I am going camping in him again this weekend I know this forum is strictly speaking purely for late bays, but I'm here because so many lovely people are on here, and I'm doing my best to squeeze Wiggie in as eligibile as a late early crossover Anyway, he's fab, I'm pleased, and I wish you all the best with your new bay
Hi Helen! Cross overs get to play both sides your getting more camping in than me - fingers crossed I get my engine back in soon...
Bit of time today on the van instead of engine not too much as rain made it too damp to get out the power tools Had a dig at the rust in the engine bay Doesn't look like it has eaten through the top hat.. Will cut it out in a couple of days and prep the area up This seems to be the extent of rust on the inner valance, probably just a patch required... Took a quick look at the tank doesn't look too bad - need to finish siphoning off the fuel Think the battery tray has had it - also the corner panel is patched badly think that I need to replace both. Removed the rear seats - looks like these have been patched in the past. Both sides are the same The arch underside looks ok but they are covered in the black gunk so I will have get rid of that to see if I can save anything from the tubs.
It's dangerous not having an engine to play with... Attacked the van with my wirebrush. Plenty of holes there now eek.. I guess I will need to cut some of the floor and replace the yanked off a load of rubbery silicon from the lower sills Not sure if the repair was just the sealant and filler... Am now waiting on a delivery of cutting discs for my grinder to remove the rot Not sure what to do about the rear wheel tubs the drivers side is pretty gone, but the passenger side apart from the bodged patch repair is fairly solid. Both of the arch panels look ok seems a shame to cut them to install tubs, I wonder if the can be installed with the arch in place... Hmmm
you l put a new front panel on that quicker that the time it will take ye to repair that one , and with the ole one of u can do any tricky repair behind it owen nw good work
Thanks Owen.This is true - looks like the reason the arch panel is so good is because it was replaced. I can see where it was joddled, I need to measure and see if I can get a replacement lets hope they didn't use the whole repair panel...
Cheers JLB - http://bit.ly/10gbCSA is the one I got - a good while back now.. I slapped a piece of wood across the top and centred it on the sump. Made it real easy to lower and extract probably not totally necessary but helpful if you have to do it on your tod ;-)
