Maybe I need to check it's filled up fully with fluid and bled, I haven't got round to that yet. The Rev switch is new didn’t have one fitted originally.
Yes it works on pressure. Rev connected to the right terminal on coil? You can always unscrew and test switch to see if it's mechanical (bit in box not pressing it far enough) or the switch itself. Ignition must be on.
Here's a few bits n bobs finally painted and the buddy seat pre paint looking forward to building up the engine and tinware and getting that fitted hopefully not long now!
I must be getting close to finishing as my wife is getting involved with the curtains now! I have seen the threads re sizes etc but, I am wondering where the sets of curtains are tied back. 1. The front window two curtains, are they tied back where the upper seat belt fitting is so they go around the whole of each cab door window and half of the front? 2. The middle and rear side windows tie either side of the windows, but, what about the sliding door? 3. The rear window, I cannot fit a rail to the chassis as the overhead locker is in the way so do I fit it to the door itself and tie the curtains back on the hatch? I have been looking at several threads to see if I can see some pictures that would give me an idea but, you cannot tell often exactly where the curtains are actually fitted, does anybody have any pictures that show them? I cannot afford to get it wrong! It won't matter a jot that I have rebuilt all the rest, I will never be able to live it down if I get the curtains wrong.
With mine.... 1. I have no fronts as I didn't like driving with the curtains bundled up just over my shoulder. 2. My sliding door curtains park exactly the same as the OS middle... The curtain rail is on the sliding track and unfortunately the oily slider catches the curtains... that said, I have 'h' track not the more common 'f' track. 3. My rear window is bar between two offset screws fitted to the top of the door frame. Tie backs are looped around the jail bars.... This is due to change with some custom brackets for the rod soon. Sorry, no pics to hand... Might be some in my build thread (search Landyn)
Thanks yes have just looked through your resto thread, its amazing marvellous work and also seen your curtain positioning so I am feeling a little happier about what to do next. Cheers
Just assembling my engine and fitting the weber progressive carb. I put the carb on so the accelerator lever is in line with the tube through the fan housing and the cable fits okay however, the electric choke part is at the back and pushes the carb about 2 cm further away from the fan housing so it wont sit on the mount point properly. Anybody seen this problem before or am I doing it wrong, it looks to me like the either the fan housing should have a recess in it or the carb wont fit??? OR perhaps its not a standard progressive twin choke carb? Crisis avoided it needs the electric choke removing and then it fits fine the correct way around!
I'm hoping to fit the engine in for the first time ever, I am about to assemble the final bits of tin ware on it and then hopefully give it a go, The rusted hunk of metal that was in originally came out very easily but, had no tin ware fitted, how easy is it to fit with all the tin ware fitted? and do you install the rubber seal around once its in?
My van is a nearly there some pictures to follow when I get chance. The engine is fitted and runs all the electrical checks have been done and everything seems to work as it should so far. Slight glitch with the leisure battery as I left it connected when I tried to get the engine going with a booster pack to support the main battery (I had, had it so long it needed charging again) and it blew the top off the leisure battery, fortunately I was not stood along side it when it happened. Bit of a pain cleaning it all up but, hopefully it was something to do with the booster pack being fitted as the new battery seems fine when starting at the moment using the now charged main battery. Only thing I am not sure about is if the split charge is working or if its been damaged when the battery went, anybody any ideas about how I can check its working simply? Fitting the accelerator cable then adjusting the brakes next then its a test drive around the private land its now housed at to make sure the gearbox is okay and then the seatbelts and the MOT pre checks and it should be ready to go for test, have all the insurance and tax issues to sort. I have a few bits to sort inside but, nothing which is on the MOT so can do those after.
Having got the engine running the gremlins have struck and the starters sticking on, turns out its the starter itself. Ordered a new one but, the spindle is too short all the >74 starters are too short??? So it seems the gearbox in my '73 is not genuine either!! Its a post 75 gearbox with a slightly longer bell housing so needs >75/T25 starter motor. One purchase, so lets hope it does the trick. Having trouble with the accelerator cable to progressive carb fittings, it hits the carb linkage at the wrong angle to pull the final movement of the linkage. Seen some ideas about different carb linkage on here but, don't know if I have the skills to make them? But, I think I will need to try as its definitely a weak area.
New starter solved the problem so that's good now. Got the bus running it seemed to get hot really quickly within a couple of minutes the exhaust was too hot to touch ,the alternator was hot, coil was hot too. I have tin ware fitted but, not the engine seal, cooler air was coming out of the fan housing pipes. Having never been near one when the engine is going I don't really know what's normal. Anybody shed any light on this? Oil pressure is around 25 psi at just above idle.
Finally, got the bus moving today under its own steam, first time in at least 15 years (looking at the paperwork). The gearbox seems fine that's a massive bonus but, clearly the timing is completely out, bit of back firing occasionally not very lively on the throttle (think this is the accelerator cable too loose). Tried to set the static timing with the No1 piston set at TDC according to the Haynes manual (1600c T1) the distributor drive shaft slot should be parallel to the pulley but, its not?? Don't know what the firing order is but, it seems to be running however, the left side rocker cover is hot and the right side fairly cold by comparison, think it might not be firing on all cylinders but, don't want to just switch HT leads about (don't really know what I am doing). Looked in a few books but, it seems different engines have different firing orders and different advances so really confused all I know is mine is an AD engine with SVDA dizzy and vacuum pipe attached to the progressive carb and its idling at around 900 rpm. Any help greatly appreciated. Is anybody able to set me off on a suitable track to set it up initially and a plan of what to do after that (the keep your VW going book has just served to confuse me more). Yorkieman
Finally, the day has arrived Bitsy is due for collection today the final wet flat and polish is being done as we speak, I have a few bits to so when I get her home (internal stuff like curtains) but, the big bits are done. here are a few pictures from the last few weeks. I have to say apart from the external body paint and big welding jobs, the rest is mainly my own work with the grateful help here and there of the guys at Rust to Riches in Market Rasen without their support over the last 5 years it wouldn't have been finshed.
First 40 mile shakedown on the way home, a few teething issues like the side door pops out at the back and selecting reverse is a pain and the passenger door doesn't now want to open from the inside. But, the engine seemed okay only thing I can see is the oil pressure gauge reads 0.5 bar when idling and about 2 bar at 3000 rpm in gear. It seems a bit low to me, what do others think, it seemed to perform okay did 60mph okay with extra still in the tank. Here's the latest pics.
Thanks, I am guessing the look might not go down too well on here but, it is a late bay underneath. I am just not a great fan of the squarer bumpers and light blocks on the late bay. Any ideas anyone on the doors and oil issues I mentioned above.
Don't know why I was worried the V5 came back Friday in just over a week, change of use complete. Plus insurance organised with £25K agreed value and retention rights and breakdown cover and wedding cover for £228 bargain I feel!
Thanks I am really chuffed with it however, did you notice my issue I could not select another gear it only stayed in 3rd I think. Scratching of head then realisation that I had not wire locked the t-bar on the linkage at the rear, a quick check revealed the little screw was loose and the linkage had separated, 5 minutes later and substitute locking wire fitted and the gears are all back again. Clearly, building the whole thing has given me some useful knowledge about how it all goes together and works or not
