Basic Scoobie conversion

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Dicky, Apr 3, 2014.

  1. I know its a can of worms and been done to death but what experiences does anyone have on here who has either bought the bits to do it and can advise on the experienc required to do it (and cost) . Or indeed the costs of having it profesionally installed (without all the whistles and bells). So that would be without adding any value to the engine thats going in - no upgrades just plopped in there and tidied up.

    Ive heard quite a wide range so far from a couple of £K to 5 or 6 or even more!
     
  2. There's an alternative enginevsub forum on volkszone if you've not seen it. May be some useful info on there.
     
  3. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    I know @Sick Boy bought all the parts and had it fitted by a local garage. He'll have some idea of costs.
     
  4. I know that 5-6k sounds a lot, but that is for a drive in drive out type service which I think is pretty good considering the gain. When you compare to an up rated type 1 or 4 engine done by a good engine builder could cost you 5k or more.
     
  5. Hmm,,i'm paying half that for my 2056's
     
  6. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    You get a bargain then.
    A 1776 here will cost you more than that.
     
  7. That said,,i had a 2 l. to begin with
     
  8. Main cost is not the engine. From what I've seen, it's all the bits and pieces you need to make it work that add to the cost.

    Gearbox adaptor plate/bellhousing
    Adapted wiring loom
    Radiator and mounting brackets
    Pipework
    Adaptation to fuel tank for fuel injection
    Shortened sump
    Exhaust
    Engine bar
    Reversed throttle body adaptor

    There may be other things that I've missed, but you get the idea. Finding a donor car is the easy bit, and you should generally try and do it this way, because it's the other stuff you need with the engine that are important (wiring loom, ECU and matched immobiliser keys)
     
  9. kev

    kev

    nicked this from the rjes site

    Subaru to VW Bellhousing Kits:
    Naturally Aspirated Clutch Bellhousing Kit £ 470.00


    Turbo Clutch Bellhousing Kit £ 540.00
    Turbo clutch bellhousing kits are usually in stock, but the clutch release cross shafts
    are modified on an exchange basis - send your shaft and we’ll modify it and sent it
    back with your bellhousing kit. This may take up to two weeks (usually less). Please
    check this page to make sure you have the correct type of shaft - only one type is suitable



    Throttle Cables:
    T25 / T3 / Vanagon Throttle Cable Kits £ 40.00
    - may be suitable for many more applications



    Engine Mounts:
    Beetle Engine Mount Cradle - Frame Forks - Subaru Mounts £ TBA

    Bay Window Crossmember £ 160.00

    Late Bay Upper Mount Kit £ 120.00

    T25 / T3 / Vanagon 2WD Crossmember £ 165.00

    T25 / T3 / Vanagon Syncro Crossmember £ 165.00

    T25’Short Gearbox’ Front Mount Kit £ 50.00
    Moves gearbox back to position bell housing as later 4 speed and all 5 speed boxes, includes
    gearshift extension parts



    Induction Components:
    Throttle Body Reverser £ 70.00
    Turns the throttle body to allow the induction pipe to be fitted without fouling the bulkhead /
    petrol tank. Early engines (approx --> MY99) with idle speed control valve on manifold only.

    Induction Manifold Reversal Kit £ 95.00
    Inlet Manifold Spacers, Alternator Relocation Bracket, and fasteners
    - to suit late model (approx MY00 -->) engines with the idle speed control valve on
    the throttle body only

    Coil Reversal Bracket for reversed induction manifolds £ 9.00
    on late model engines - retains standard ignition lead lengths



    Cooling System Components

    Reversed Subaru Coolant Manifolds £ 50.00
    Reverse manifolds are done on an exchange basis- send your manifold and we’ll reverse
    it and sent it back. Manifolds can usually be turned around within 10 days, or possibly
    quicker by prior arrangement

    Coolant Plumbing Kits (Naturally Aspirated) £ 95.00
    Kit includes moulded hoses and brackets to suit T25’s with an RJES reversed cooant
    manifold* and a 1984 - 90 petrol header tank*, and includes all fasteners, brackets and
    hose clips
    * not included in plumbing kit

    Coolant Inlet Rotation Adaptor (may be needed to clear some ‘diy’ exhausts) £ 9.00




    Subaru Flywheels

    Used Subaru Flywheels (when in stock), turbo or n/a £ 55.00

    Flywheel Redrilling Service (turbo to n/a or vice versa) £ 30.00


    Clutch Components (all VW or Subaru OEM):

    228mm VW clutch Disc - often very hard to get without buying a £ 45.00
    complete clutch kit
    225mm Subaru Nat Asp Clutch Kits - VW disc £ 140.00
    With VW 228mm clutch disc for use with standard VW input shaft

    225mm Subaru Nat Asp Clutch Kits - Subaru disc (to order) £ 120.00
    With standard Subaru clutdh disc for uses with Subaru splined input shaft, below

    225mm Subaru Turbo Clutch Kits - VW disc £ 145.00
    With VW 228mm clutch disc for use with standard VW input shaft

    225mm Subaru Turbo Clutch Kits - Subaru disc £ 125.00
    With standard Subaru clutdh disc for uses with Subaru splined input shaft, below

    Subaru Splined Gearbox Input Shaft £ 190.00
    Allows use of complete Subaru clutch in an RJES bell housing - heat treated maraging steel



    Exhaust Components:

    Cast 304 Stainless Exhaust Manifolds £ 140.00
    best possible ground clearance, to suit 2” (51mm) OD 304 tube, weld in, per pair

    Mild Steel EJ Exhaust Flanges £ 16.00
    cylinder head, to suit 1 5/8” (41.5mm) OD tube, per pair

    304 Stainless EJ Exhaust Flanges £ 26.00
    cylinder head, to suit 1 5/8” (41.5mm) OD tube, per pair

    Turbo Outlet Flange £ 25.00
    TD04 type turbo, to suit 2.5” (64mm) OD tube

    Exhaust Gasket - Head to Manifold £ 10.00
    These are not Subaru gaskets, but can be mate to fit with minor mods, and cost half as much, per pair

    stainless exhaust 650



    Fuel System Components:

    Fuel Injection Pump £ 55.00
    Note - they are pattern parts, not Bosch originals, and are
    suitable for non turbo Subaru engines (or as stock replacements on
    injected wasserboxer engines

    High pressure fuel injection hose, 8mm bore, per metre £ 3.20 / m

    Fuel injection filter, to suit 8mm hose £ 10.50


    Wiring Work

    Prices for wiring work depend on many things. Please see the Harness Conversion Work Price Calculator, which will allow you to get a price for all the common wiring work involved in Subaru powered VW’s.


    Alternator Belts

    Short Alternator Belts - to suit EJ series engines with the steering pump removed £ 9.00



    Electronics / Sensors

    Vehicle Speed Sensor - Threaded Cable £ 45.00
    --> 1982 speedo cable with M18 x 1.5 thread. These sensors fit between the speedo and
    cable, and fit VW’s M18 x 1.5 threaded fitting properly, with no modifications needed
    (unlike some other similar sensors which are actually intended for Vauxhall / Ford Applications)

    Vehicle Speed Sensor - Push Fit Cable £ 45.00
    1983 - 1990 (‘92 Syncro) fits speedo with push fit cable cable

    Speed Signal Calibrator (to order) £ 70.00
    Programmable to allow very accurate adjustment of the speed signal where required, such as
    where Subaru instrumentation or cruise control is used in a different vehicle
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2014
    art b likes this.
  10. kev

    kev

    i dont think it any harder to do than to install a vw engine apart from the wiring that was a night mare

    but the likes of rjes will do the loom for you

    everything on mine apart from the engine bar is just bolted on but it will look nothing like baysearchers or birmingham bay
     
    Last edited: Apr 3, 2014
  11. My head exploded reading the list. will have another go later!
     
  12. Post up a picture and we'll do a comparison. I'm genuinely curious.
     
  13. Yes I bought the kit from Fellowespeed and bought the engine from MAC who are also installing it. The kit is superb quality but was expensive, about £4600 all in including VAT. The engine, a Subaru Legacy 2 litre from 2005 with 30k miles on the clock was £500, which is what I sold my old 1600 TP for. The overall cost will come in at just under what Fellowes would have charged for doing the job. MAC have also repainted the engine bay, installed the electrics on the fire extinguisher, petrol tank and a few other bits and pieces. I am really pleased with the whole project and hope to get it down to techenders on the 25th
     
  14. kev

    kev

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  15. kev

    kev

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  16. kev

    kev

    not the prettiest thing in the world ,but it works
    a lot of it was done to see if it worked ok and it did so ive just not got round to changing any of it

    ie scoop , header tank , sump

    would i spend 7 grand having it done properly
    yes i would if i had 7 grand
    but it would only be for the look as mine works perfectly at the minute
    mines been done 3 or 4 years now and its done thousands of miles
    im thinking its paid for its self in fuel as well now
     
  17. kev

    kev

    put my van next to a garage done one and you couldnt tell the difference as long as you dont look under it
     
  18. @Paul Weeding wouldn't be anywhere near that for a Type 4 rebuild.
     
  19. Depends on the type of rebuild... I can do a general one, with a little bit of head porting for around £3k max... That'll get you up to 100bhp or a bit over!! As soon as you get into wanting more than 120bhp, then the cost goes up a fair bit... £1100 just on reworking the heads and match porting manifolds, and the labour pretty much doubles as you're into full on blueprinting, and the engine goes together dry 2 or 3 times to fine tune components etc :cool:
     
  20. @kev it's not that different, to be fair. As you say, sump is different, and I have a scoop on my radiator - although I think yours looks slightly angled, is that right? Mine's flat and level but has the scoop directing air into it.

    I also have the cone filter going around to the right and sitting just under the driver's side air vent, so it's directing a cold air feed down onto the air intake, and my expansion bottle is over to the left and closer to the fuel tank firewall. But that's not an issue, just more aesthetics.

    The only thing I would say is - have you considered putting the cam belt covers back on? I realise the likelihood of some debris bouncing up off the road and lodging itself in the belt is quite low, but I'd have put them back on anyway.
     

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