At a loss now.

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Soggz, Jun 19, 2021.

  1. Soggz

    Soggz Supporter

    Ok.
    Fitted new oil pressure switch as last one was leaking oil.But worked as it should. It never came on in running, but It wouldn’t come on on ignition being left on.
    Now it comes on at ignition, but stays on when running.
    Van runs fine snd sounds good.
    How do I check if it’s the sensor? Or oil pressure?
     
  2. If the one you took out was working ok I would say it’s the new switch that’s faulty. I think they operate at about 5-7psi so if you’ve got no oil pressure the engine would be knocking.
    Make sure the wire isn’t trapped anywhere.
    If you earth the terminal to the block the oil light should be on. Light should be off with terminal open circuit.
     
    Zed likes this.
  3. Stick the old one back on and see if it behaves as it should. If it does, likely your new switch.
     
  4. I should sell that van it seems to be giving you a lot of grief nipper :D
     
  5. Soggz

    Soggz Supporter

    Wasn’t dosnt kill you…
     
    F_Pantos likes this.
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    He's right though - torch it and claim, you know it makes sense. :D
     
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  7. Soggz

    Soggz Supporter

    And now…

    I put the old one back in. Light comes on on ignition. Goes off when running, Turn off ignition, turn back on, light dosnt come on on ignition. Odd…
     
  8. It can take a while for the oil pressure to dissipate, give it a minute or two before you try the ignition trick again after running the engine.
     
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  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It's a good general test - run, stop engine, switch on ignition immediately and see how long it takes the oil light to come on - the longer it takes, the tighter your bearings are...except thrust, it won't really show that.
     
    areksilverfish, PanZer, Soggz and 2 others like this.
  10. ^this. Takes a while for the system to lose pressure. The longer, the better :thumbsup:
     
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  11. Run a new wire if you haven’t already. I recently uncovered my whole wiring harness front to back. My alternator wire and oil pressure sender wire were roasted at various points along the whole loom.
     
    PanZer and Zed like this.
  12. CollyP

    CollyP Moderator

    I used a dowty washer under my old pressure switch. Stopped the leak. Job done.
     
  13. scrooge95

    scrooge95 Moderator and piggy bank keeper

    You fixed something mechanical? Who are you and what have you done with Colin??
     
    Valveandy, philntfc, Lasty and 4 others like this.
  14. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    A Dowty washer, good lad :thumbsup:
     
    CollyP likes this.
  15. Soggz

    Soggz Supporter

    Did they work at all?
    The gen wire seems fine, the oil light is off, but flickers when I turn the key to start it, then goes off when running… It always used to just come on, at the first key click, hot or not…
     
  16. CollyP

    CollyP Moderator

    How rude!!
     
  17. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    The flicker when you turn the key to crank is because for instance my stock sized oil pump puts out about 10psi when you crank the engine with cold oil at 300rpm. Thats enough to put the light off.
    I use it to check that I have filled the oil system with oil after an oil change before I put the negative lead back on the coil to let the engine run. (I have a cooler loop that needs a litre of oil pushed through it before the engine sees oil pressure)

    A more worn out pump or engine might produce a little less pressure, or your starter motor might crank a bit slower hence flickering while cranking.

    Does the light start flickering idling on a hot day when the engine is hot, and go out if you rev it up a bit ? thats a normal sign of some wear on the engine.
    But not the end of the world, just another symptom to note and not worry too much about until you decide to do something.
     
  18. Your oil light shouldn’t flicker when you’re cranking.
     
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  19. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Yes but... doing what he did it was pure luck that he didn't crack the case!

    And it wouldn't work for soggz as his is leaking through the switch not around it.

    No! see above.
    And you!
     
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  20. ^all of the above.

    If you need a Dowty washer to seal the switch, either the switch has a straight-sided thread (I believe I have seen some), or something Very Unpleasant has happened to the mounting boss in the case.

    If you’ve got a tapered switch and it threads all the way into the case, likely there’s a crack somewhere.
     
    Lasty and Zed like this.

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