Be aware that 240v spot welders are not much cop, and should mainly be used for replicating a factory cosmetic look only, I've always migged aswell if using 240v spots or single sided spotters. 3 phase welders are the only ones with enough grunt to produce reliable welds.
my 240 one is sweeeeeeeeeet , just takes a little practice, if its hot enough to melt it into oblivion its hot enought to make it stick
Just want a csw13t clarke jobbie if poss which should do 2mm+2mm. Duty cycle is poor though only 3 per minute.
Don't need it just yet buy would like one for when I'm back on the body work. Just bought a Portamig 185 and specified the spot weld timer so can make do without.
Thats how I did my rear valance with a 240v spotter, as wanted the spot welds there for show if anything, but having to rely on the heat/and a longer duration to weld rather than a high current, will result in distortion. I'd bet most 240 spotwelds would fail most slug/peel tests.
I don't think you'll get 2mm + 2mm I manage a wheel arch to tub with mine, but any thicker and it's not up to it. It does help if you set it up right - I was given mine by a frustrated bloke who couldn't weld a mini cill on with it. Great for window surround repairs and front panels too. It's like this one I think, but with a timer.
mines pretty good, its old though. all the spec sheets with it etc suggest 5mm overall thiickness can be welded, its 99% due to having the tips the right shape, diameter and contact surfaces clean on the welder as well as the metal. i do clean the tips every 10 welds or so and it makes all the difference, its perfect for sills etc, but ti wouldnt do a front arch, but you would need a fairly good 3 phase one to do them properly
Yep good point, forgot to add that about the tips, they've got to be well groomed to get anything half decent out of them!
Mine has a timer box. I think it helps because it switches off the power while the pressure is still on the weld.
We have. 240 one at work at it will weld two bits of 2 mm stainless but constant use and the copper arms glow red.......
you have to cool them in a bucket. Seems to weld better when it's already glowing hot though? I genearlly fire off 10 welds then put it down - heavy blighter and we both need a rest. I usually get on with something else and do a burst of welding every 10-15 minutes, then let it cool. It's worth the hassle for the neat, factory style results.
One of the conditions of my voluntary redundancy from BMW as a toolmaker was I had to do my last 6 weeks on Rover 75 sub assembly spot welding ..... Hardest 6weeks work I ever did ..........
