Leaky olive on the shower mixer. I can't tighten it more because the nut is hitting the mixer tap body - seems a bit weird. Can't get ptfe on the olive as there's no space to push the nut back. Can't pull the pipe out to assist that idea as it's fixed firmly in position... and it seems to me any tape on olives simply gets cut and does nothing? Can't now get the olive off. as it's crushed onto the pipe. The tap looks good where the olive should seal. Any suggestions? Boss white? I could get some to go with the tub of plumbers mait I used a tiny bit of.
The plumbers have gone extremely quit Zed, which I think means that you have to go backwards from where you are now as painful as it may be. A bit like I’ve had this back plate and cylinders on and off and apart and on and off again and again and again. Waiting on a lickle pipe bender now to re do the cylinder connector pipe. Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,painful and deflating and boring fourth time around
Dunno. lol TBH can't work out what went wrong. I'd need to destroy the shower cubicle to completely replace the pipe though. I'm up for trying anything before I do that! Maybe it's the "floating" bit in the mixer tap leaking, it's impossible to tell. There must be a seal in there letting it float a bit so I'll have that apart first I think.
Not a hundred percent sure what you’re up against but just a thought, is it possible to get the pipe off enough to get another olive on and scrunch it up with two olives as it’s the olive connecting to the tap face or surface that’ll be the seal as it were. Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,, please completely disregard if I’m chatting bollards and baloney
Got to be worth a try, my heating engineer brother in law swears by ( not at) it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is the naughty pipe on the left, though I don't suppose that helps? ...and the back of the mixer thing.
Und Undo the nut to take the shower body off. Make some ptfe string and feed it inside the nut to try and make a seal between the nut and olive. Put it back together and see if it's sealed . I'm questioning why the nut is tight up against the tap body as that may be stopping the olive sealing properly. That's if it's the olive leaking and not the tap itself of course. I see you have the body off now. Make some ptfe string and feed it into the nut round the olive using a pointy thing, try and pack the space with ptfe.
Me too. But I did swing on it because it was leaking, which did slow it a bit. By then it was far tighter than it should need to be so I stopped and took it to pieces for a look. The other one which is powered by the same pressure system is barely tight and it's fine so I'm scratching my head. Identical pipe, identical olives.
LS-X is great stuff. I fitted an expensive antique radiator in the bathroom, just wouldn’t stop weeping on the valve to rad connections. No amount of ptfe would stop the weep. LS-X sorted it, I was sceptical to try it but it’s still dry Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
This is the fitting in the mixer for the pipe. I spotted this crack on the "shelf" the internal nut tightens on to fix it into the mixer. But the other side of the cracked bit has this seal to seal the mixer end and the olive at the other so I don't think that crack actually matters as it's sort of inside a pipe? But as I was taking these pictures I did notice an area of chrome missing on the live sealing surface and if I'm not mistaken shows signs of having been weeping for a long time before I even started on all this new bathroom fiasco. What do you think? Apart from that it's time I got more powerful reading glasses because I didn't see this when I was just looking . Is this the booby?
Looks like chrome missing and a crack. Just maybe the more you tighten the nut up the more it opens up the crack. You might be best trying some of that sealing stuff LS-X, some more ptfe, you know that you can't have too much of the stuff, and after the LS'X has gone off a bit just nipping the nut up.
Internal crack and the olive surface I'm tempted to cut to the chase and buy a new one - £30.95 delivered. Feeling the olive surface with my finger nail I'm pretty sure it's the problem. Sod it, I'll just do it.
It's the best solution in the long term, last thing you want is water getting behind the panelling, that would be a disaster.
That's what I'm thinking. One good thing about boat plumbing is that if you have even a small leak the pump will run periodically to re-pressurise the system - if it stays off all night you can be pretty sure nothing is amiss. My system pressurises purely on the pump, some have an accumulator to get a few litres out before the pump needs to run. In terms of leak spotting I prefer my type of system. I can see the attraction of accumulators but it's just more stuff to go wrong (and find a place to fit). IIRC you need one for cold and a separate one for hot too. No thanks.
Blue Hylomar. Seriously. Fills the cracks and is sticky enough to hold the pressure. When we moved into a new house in 1990 the first thing that happened was the kitchen cabinet under the sink got wet. Turned out the builders had dragged the polyethene mains input water pipe over some concrete and burred up the end going into the stopcock. Which was exactly the right length, no give where it came through the floor. I think there was an olive on the pipe end. But they had put it on"furry" pipe. So I ended up smearing Hylomar over the furry end and sticking it in the stopcock and doing up the joint. Still not leaking by 2000 when we sold the house.
