Just a quick one, looking for thoughts on what is best for my van, so last summer I did bit of a repair on my 2l type 4, engine out type job, Anyway when I put the engine back in I couldn't get the engine to start so I very stupidly messed around with me afm cog throwing the mixture out, the engine runs and drives fine get about 20mpg on average, the issue is on idle when I rev to max I get a back fire and you can smell that the mixture is rich. Do I look for a cheap replacement afm Do I fiddle around and try and make the mixture more lean Do I take it to a garage Or leave it alone as it drives
No they won’t. They won’t have a clue what they’re looking at. @jameswick89 have a look on here for a recent FI thread, with link to the Bosch manual. More info on www.ratwell.com. https://thelatebay.com/index.php?threads/injecting-a-sense-of-uncertainty.91770/
Donnnttt do ittttt to late, you need an emissions tester Pop the top off turn the mixture screw in the air flow meter until it’s a max, take the wiper in the meter and turn it back one , move the mixture screw until the emissions come back into spec with the screw around half way through its adjustment, continue until the emissions are correct and the screws mid adjustment
I wish I had touched it haha, worst thing was I was only 180° out on disruptor. Looking at snotty's links i need to reset the tension of the cog down to 50-60g which i know is a lot less than it currently is. Once that is set I will play with the mixture screw, what is the screw for under the accelerator cable junction spring
Amazing thank you, I feel more confident on setting it up correctly and won't just be blind luck. Looking forward to improved mpg
I have to rev the engine when it first starts otherwise the alternator relay doesn't kick in, sometimes i just press the pedal down a little to long
All fuel delivery systems will tend to go rich on acceleration - even the mechanical CIS - FI from Bosch has a mega heavy air flow flap arrangement which overshoots by design if you suddenly open the throttle valve, making it go extra rich. And carburettors have accelerator pumps. You dont have to rev the engine to make the alternator light go out , you can just increase the revs slightly above the initial slow idle after starting (or maybe replace the brushes in the alternator). The engine will run for hours with that light on, certainly it will wait until you drive off, especially as its a type 4 where it doesnt rely on the alternator belt for cooling.
This is definitely one of those cases if its not broken dont touch it. From doing a little reading I understand the theory, The main cog mostly controls the high rev mixture. So the tighter the spring is wound the leaner it is The swing arm does the overall mixture. The closer the arm is to the full pump switch the leaner it is Then last is the air bypass screw. Its such slow work doing it by yourself make an adjustment have to walk to the front get in start the engine. Then repeat over again, had to pause my hands have turned into little icicles
