no scope for binning the case and using the cubby as a replacement? the relative positions of the inlet and exhaust can be changed if needs be....
I asked the tech at Propex about fitting any of their units under the floor....he said as long as it's relatively well waterproofed it's not an issue.....
Warrenty void. I think you're probably wrong about moving the inlet and exhausts. You can see inside through the air in hole and it all looks pretty flimsy. I for one won't be dismantling a customers new propex just to see if it can be done, it's all taped up with "do not remove or warrenty void" stickers. If it was mine I might have a different view.
fair enough.... If you look at the above pic, the burner can be rotated to alter the relative position where the exhaust would exit the case... the intake air inlet is just a hole in the case adjacent to the fan, so, in theory, could be anywhere around it's circumference....it'll still work..... It's more a question of whether it was necessary to do this to squeeze the unit in somewhere.... Point taken about a customers new unit...
I'll try and get some pics of it fitted over the weekend, but as you've realised its very specific in terms of mountimg orientation, allowing for the flue/exhaust and fitting.
would be useful to see the layout....I'm making a box for mine, but trying to reduce the noise at the same time, so was planning to incorporate a silencer in the box.... as this noise is given up as heat, I'm hoping to use this 'waste' heat to preheat the recirculated air intake..... sounds more complicated than it is, and I know there are a few detractors who question why I should bother, but the way I see it, if i'm going to the trouble of buggering about, I may as well bugger about to my advantage
yep....presumably, so folk don't fit them underfloor without any additional protection. even more so, now they do a bespoke underfloor unit....
One issue fitting it under the van is the intake and exhaust face down and you are limited to the bend you can put on the pipes I notice the one they sell for underfloor mounting has side intake/outlet
You could always substitute the straight spigot for a mandrel bend...just avoid your typical 90 degree elbow, or long runs of corrugated flex, on the smaller units Another considerations is to keep the intake and exhaust lengths similar....
You can turn the whole thing 90 degs, but then I guess the whole thing would stick down too far. The paperwork that comes with it is terrible. eg the instructions say you can adapt the lengths as long as total is 2m or less and exhaust longer than inlet. On the 1m inlet pipe supplied is a label that says you must not cut it down. Make your minds up.
I'm wondering why you raised it up it the cubby hole. I'm now "doing a kruger" with one but stopped to ask you this before I make the exhaust an inlet holes. I don't think it needs to be perfectly horizontal?
Because....I'm planning to run a hose to the front by splitting it from Y piece after the outlet, seemed to make more sense to route the pipe under the unit, and also I think I wanted to stay away from the tub/floor seam if it was mounted lower, but in hindsight I dont think it would be an issue.