Lovely spam, wonderful spa-a-m, Lovely spam, wonderful S Spam, Spa- a-a-a-a-a-a-am, Spa-a-a-a-a-a-a-am, SPA-A-A-A-A-A-A-AM, SPA-A-A-A-A-A-A- AM
“He’s six foot something, fit as a flea, good looking – he’s got to have something wrong with him. Hopefully he’s hung like a hamster – That would make us all feel better. Having said that, me missus has got a pet hamster at home, and his cock’s massive.” – Ian Holloway talking about Cristiano Ronaldo.
Mainly because if they say anything vaguely critical of the referee, his family, friends or anyone who might have met him in the last 20 years, they get fined and banned from the touchline. Even if the ref is a blind half-wit who couldn't ref his way out of a wet paper bag.
I think football is up it's own arras these days...maybe it was ever thus, but when my old fella went to watch The Wanderers as a boy...they used to walk to Burnden Park and chat with the players on the way...that connection has been all but lost, sadly. Just another working class swindle IMO
So back to the OP, what was the definitive answer if I wanted to do more good than harm but not aim for a heat conservation award or bankrupt myself in the process? Is outside metal, dynamat, aluminum backed foam in layers good, bad or ugly?
I'm tempted to say do what the f*ck you like.....but I won't Any kind of mass that you can add to thin metal panels will reduce 'Drumming' some people have used flashing to good effect, others have used the more expensive proprietary stuff ( I've used both and found Noise Killer's stuff to be a good compromise) This is a "worth doing seeing as you're in there" job. For heat insulation Sticking single faced aluminium foil to the side walls (foil side facing the metal)) will reflect cold Sticking twin faced aluminium foil to the side wall will reflect cold outwards and radiant heat inwards Twin faced foil with an entrapped air layer will reduce/retard the transmission from hot surface to cold surface Adding additional fibrous insulation (like Rockwool, Poly Fill, closed cell foam etc.) after the foil/air/foil layer but before the trim panel will provide many more pockets of air which trap heat and reduce conduction as a result. But if you use Mineral fibre type battens these will absorb moisture so you will then need an additional vapour barrier between the insulation and the trim panel Warm air can withold more vater vapour than cold air....so people who use a heat source, like a propex, without any insulation, will need to maintain that level of heat above dew point throughout the bus, or the water vapour simply condenses out on the nearest cold surface, the most obvious being the windows...the less obvious being the van walls hidden behind the trim panels. Add to this, cooking, brewing up, sitting around and breathing, and you've got a lot of water vapour to absorb. Check out some of the motorhome, caravan and self-builders websites...they're obviously done to a cost, but they wouldn't spend money on it if it didn't work to their customers' satisfaction, or if their bodywork starts rotting out and furnishings start moulding after a year or two. good door seals will also make a difference...
Sadly...he passed away...still, his misadventures with expanding foam will be a salutory lesson for us all. R.I.P Ken...the foamy friend I never really knew.... Jesus Ken! You're alive