Something just occurred to me that I haven’t tried. That is, seeing how easy (or harder ) it might be to reach parts of the Vents and Fuel Tank Bay with the rear end on axle stands. I’ll find out when I do the underneath. Might mean another final coat goes on if it’s easier. Some angles are just so hard to get to, but with the whole back end angled, who knows. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I think first time around a lot of van's engine bays got left, I know I did a lot like that, as you found out it's a big job.
I suckered myself in to thinking it was basically a couple of boxes with a few extra bits. Quick check with hands, brushes, tools and declare it a 2 week job! Nope. It’s always those “extra bits” that double the time...then discovering that yes you can get your hand there, but you can actually work a tool there. Still, i’m pleased so far and glad of the knowledge upgrade involved. Just checking things in situ for clearances etc before final coat of paint for the very awkward fuel tank bay. I’ll be mounting VSR and cable retaining clips to the firewall using rivnuts. Plenty of room and no chance of piercing the fuel tank. Might actually use rivnuts and bolts, instead of screws, for attaching the firewall. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yes and no. Red circle is a gap through to engine bay. I can cover from the other side easily - until now it’s been useful for peering, prodding, painting, pointing torch and retrieving dropped things through. Green line is a large overlap of 2 pieces. It’s covered in under seal within the wheel arch from underneath. When I get to the underneath I’ll have a better idea - might be able to sand, rust treat & paint through it, then seal. In the corner opposite to the red circle is a finger sized gap to underneath. Same as the overlap though...i’ll see if I can use it to print through then seal it. I’m assuming there are no drainage points in all this. Apart from the structural bits (like D Pillar corners and where the firewall attach - they both have what look like drip curves (can’t describe it better than that). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Painted seam sealer over butyl tape seems to have worked. Finished painting the vents top to bottom. Never to be done again...apart from the obligatory missed bits to touch up. I’ll keep them clean from now on! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
First coat of paint in the engine bay proper, and boot lip surround etc. It’s dawning on me just how much effort has gone in to this that will never be seen! The main mission was always one of discovering problems and making it well protected to last though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That is 100% true! It is also somewhat satisfying to know that at least TLB guys & gals get to see the progress. A quick review of the progress is motivating. It’s great understanding this back end better too. Though there is always more to discover. I’ve made sure to do less than a professional job, just to make sure the engine takes centre stage. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Don't kid yourself. It's probably taken you longer as you honed your techniques, worked out what it all was and how to go about it, what paint blah. Same result though and actually inside the fuel tank area where you're finished (?) - You could eat your dinner off yours. As part of a standardish/paint resto that was already no doubt costing an arm and a leg do you think the fuel tank area gets the love yours is? or the engine bay? Probably don't get done at all, which is why you're doing it!
This is a job I need to do , some good tips reading through the thread , good work Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’m trying to survive the task at the moment. ha ha When i’m done i’ll do a rundown of tips to pass on. That way it can be a condensed list from start to finish. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve been curious about some of the holes in the beams holding up the engine bay ceiling/bed floor. I’ve put fibreglass tabs over the obvious PO drilled ones, but these large ones seem original. A few (not all) in the engine bay itself are used to attach the perforated removable insulation retainer. Thinking long-term, if they are for squirting waxoyl in, then they are better off capped with m4 holes drilled down from above (grommet covers). I could hermetically seal them all right now so no condensation gets in. Also, this rail on the RHS previously had butyl tape between it and the outer panel: It flexes somewhat (not massively) but doesn’t seem to offer anything structurally - i’ve seen it runs all the way to the B Pillar. Butyl tape it again or just leave it be? As always, thanks guys! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Condensation will occur with the merest pin prick, the holes are for letting it out. As these parts have survived well for 40+ years I feel it would be/could be foolish to now block the holes up.
Condensation, on purchase, was something I never considered until one morning I woke up in a toddler’s pool worth of water. It’s now definitely on my radar. I wasn’t sure how/if it would accumulate in a well sealed fuel tank bay. There is what looks like a dished out low point, but unlike the battery tray it doesn’t have a drainage hole in it. The other hole seems totally randomly drilled at a higher point: The lip around the cutout for the fuel line (i’ll compression foam tape around that to seal the gap between base & tank) obviously won’t let water out. Plug random hole and drill drainage hole? With moisture being a 2-way-street I never know which to prioritise where - drainage or prevent ingress. Sorry for my slow replies. I seem to have gotten terrible at multi-tasking (fell down a rabbit hole of 12v circuits & sensors whilst finishing off the engine bay). Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Really, there shouldn't be a lot of condensation forming in there, as you say the whole tank firewall area is supposed to be sealed.
Fuel tank access hatch finished...bar the usual fine tunings. I’ll have easy access to the fuel tank breather pipe connections, fuel gauge sender & earth through this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Confession time. I’ve been avoiding getting underneath the backend because it’s busy with a lot of stuff I know nothing about. Also, i’ve never jacked up a vehicle on my own before. Here is what I have and my plan on how to use it. Any objections & suggestions (term corrections) welcomed. •10 ton bottle jack @ 21-52cm lift •3 ton (each) axle stands @ 37-55cm lift •Fiamma Level Ups, which I hope will suffice as chocks for the front wheels; using concrete blocks to stop them sliding Is it ok to raise the van, centrally, from underneath the gearbox where the ribs are? It’s a fairly flat area. Axle stands will be at-the-ready to quickly put in place, then i’ll inch the van higher to raise the stands up a few notches. I’m thinking here, on the torsion rods but inside of the wheel swing arm things - no tubes or hoses in that area. I’ve no idea what would be considered too high though. The gearbox is 30cm off the ground so the most I could raise it, to the limit of the stands, is 25cm. I firmly attached a rubber pad (7cm diameter) to this frame (for extra surface area & protection) so it sits on the top of the jack, with some wriggle room. I imagine as the van rises though that the angle will change in relation to the vertical lift of the jack. So it will have to rise 7cm before stands are in place and I can make an adjustment. I don’t know if it might roll up the Fiamma chocks too. Cheers guys. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
