Since buying our 76 bay back in the summer it’s been a case of trying to strip as much of it as possible to see what shape it is in. We are getting closer to the stage where we will have to start making the repairs. With this in mind where is best for replacement panels. For some reason the previous under “repaired” panels by just putting the new panel over the old panel. We have also stripped the inside so after reading a view threads we were just going to hand paint rust oleum on the inside (despite my dad wanting to spray it). Some of the existing paint is good, but was thinking of giving it all a fresh coat. There are a few repairs required to the cargo floor before paint. Is rust oleum the best option? Is it good for underneath the bus as well? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm not surprised on the panel over panel "repairs". Rustolium is good for the inside, some will say POR 15 is best. Saying that my van was Rustolium rollered all on the outside 10 years ago and only now needs doing again, and it lives outside in all weathers. VW Heritage is probably the best for new panels.
I think people rate Glossop's finest Schofields for metal too. Pretty sure my 79 has three layers on its rear arches. For additional weight obvs
Schofields for panels. The panels they make themselves are excellent, and the stuff they can’t make are the same as the panels that all the other suppliers sell. Schofields at least have the decency to tell you in the description if a part is a cheap and nasty one..
I hand painted the interior, engine bay and underbody of my van, with Rustoleum Combicolor Gloss Metal Paint. Avenue Coatings (Tools-Paint) in Slough is a good reliable supplier and they do the RAL colours and will mix to your specified VW colour code if you wish. They have a website and you can order paint online. Hand brushing or roller gives a thicker coat than spraying. Some folks roller paint their vans on the outside with Rustoleum and there are plenty of Clips on Youtube and on the club8090 forum for T25's. I thought A H Schofield did the best panels.
Cheers for the replies. Is rustoleum ok over hammerite kurust. We had put it on parts of the cargo floor. I think I read somewhere it reacts with hammerite, but that’s may all paints. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Rustoleum is excellent, just paint it from the tin - no thinners , two coats will give a great finish . I just used a standard colour but you can get it mixed ... Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Kurust is likely to be phosphoric acid, so nowt to do with Hammerite paint (which does seem to react with everything). Give it a good wipe off with panel wipe, then Rusto straight on. Only downside of Rustoleum is that it can take a good while to harden up fully.
I did a test of Rustoleum (Copper) over Hammerite (white) about a month ago and it seems fine. Sat in a garage though so not exposed to much. I’ve found Rustoleum very easy to work with. Drying times described are accurate, but over Seam Sealer it can take 2 weeks to be even touch dry. I’ve even painted aluminium & fibreglass with the direct to metal paint. Painted my fingernails too and it stayed on for weeks - not on purpose Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
What would you do for preparation before painting rustoleum? Any rust treatment or just a wire brush? (Just curious - painting is well down my priority list)
anyone got any other suggestions on paint ... just at this time of year Rustoleum takes a longtime to go off. I was wondering if something like tractor enamel has shorter cure times? and if anyone knows where I could get some colour matched or any other paint for that matter? I have a couple of spots in my gutters that need touching up.
Up to you. Put some rust stabiliser on, then some primer if you like, but Rusto does go on well straight over stable, brushed rust. As above, this time of year, it may take a good while - like a few weeks - to go off. I've slapped various stuff under my van over the years, and the one thing that's stayed rock-solid is Rustoleum.
With all paints, loose rust and pits full of rust are worth getting rid of. Kurust works quite well but can sometimes act to cover a rusty bit without converting it as it dries before all the rust is processed. Rust converters that have to be washed off with water e.g. Fertan may be better as they dont leave so many pockets of rust. Then Rustoleum or Hammerite paint but as several thinner coats allowing time for the paint to dry is good. Too thick, the skin of the paint cures and the solvent remains in rhe body of the paint. In this state a pressure washer will lift sticky flakes of paint a few weeks after painting.. done that.. And with all of these very waterproof paints , especially POR-15 which also has trouble sticking to an imperfect surface, once water gets under it, it makes rust worse than a bare surface.
I also had rear arches over old arches when I started work on mine. I have mostly used schofields for my panels and all have come up great. I got some Rustoleum mixed up to pastel white and then did the whole interior, probably could of just done regular white as you can't see most of it, but just felt right trying to do it in the same colour
