Restoration of Project Panther

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by bagpus, Sep 22, 2019.

  1. [​IMG]
    Is this any help?
     
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  2. @paradox, that really helps- thankyou
     
  3. Hi Moons, have never really thought about it in terms of saving the bus but I guess it would have been uneconomical to put into a professional restorer. TBH I spend more time stressing about whether I'm doing a good enough job, if it wasn't for the Haynes book I think I'd be in therapy by now!
     
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  4. It seems like you spend hours and hours trial fitting panels with nothing to show for your work, then at some point everything seems to align and can be welded together..... these are good days!

    So the rear corner battery tray fitted to the rebuilt fire trap, this lined up with the rear corner which in turn aligned with the outer wheel arch panel seams that in turn lined up with the repairs to the inner wheel arch and the lower arch repair panel- so they could all be welded together. Then, as I had the welder out I could weld in the rear window lower repair panel. IMG_0560.JPG
    Battery tray welded to engine bay chassis top panel
    IMG_0568 (2).JPG
    Rear Quarter welded in.
    IMG_0566 (2).JPG
    Space is tight on this side of the garage but you can see the wheel arch outer and lower window frame are welded in and the seam lines up fairly well
     
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  5. As you will have seen, my garage is not so big, however we reached a key moment when I needed to turn the bus around to get to the drivers side door (as I've been working anticlockwise since finishing the underneath)
    Due to Covid and the fact I live in the country, there was a distinct lack of people power so the engine went back in with a rigged up temporary tank that looked as though the bus was on a drip.
    All worked really well until operator error mean't I reversed into the tool tray and dented one of the new rear panels! Luckily I had just bought a panel beating kit and the results were pretty good but still kicking myself for being so stupid.

    Anyway, with good access to the door it was time to start on the repair. There was extensive rust as you can see

    IMG_0580 (1).JPG

    The bracing bars had become detached and I wanted to try and retain the shape of the door so kept the old door skin attached and started cutting back to good on the door bottom.
    The side impact beam (which is the same thickness of metal as the chassis rails) had also rotted out so this was the first section to repair
    IMG_0587.JPG
    Rotten parts cut out and new about to be welded in place.

    Now the new bottom section had a good basis to be welded onto

    IMG_0588.JPG

    And now the door bottom in place
    IMG_0595.JPG

    So with a good deal more structural rigidity the old doorskin was removed. Every time I remove a pink panel it makes me smile!
    with this removed I could see what edges needed repairing an I was pleasantly surprised.
    The bars were repaired in the same way as the passenger door, welded on and then primed. All starting to look a lot better.
    IMG_0632.JPG
    And then the new skin trial fitted and primed ready for assembly
    IMG_0611.JPG
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2020
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  6. and finally back on the bus
    IMG_0634 (2).JPG
     
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  7. CollyP

    CollyP Moderator

    Nice!!!! :)
     
  8. Cheers, really pleased with how both doors have turned out
     
    CollyP likes this.
  9. Next are the front arches. The step area was in really poor condition so it was good to cut it out and carefully grind away the old arches from the remaining panels IMG_0635 (2).JPG
    to leave this
    IMG_0637 (2).JPG

    I purchased genuine vw arches to avoid having to cut anything, however, they don't look appear to be even close to fitting
    IMG_0642 (2).JPG

    The rear has a large gap

    IMG_0643 (2).JPG

    and the front where it meets the A pillar is twisted (as is the middle).

    I'm sure it is operator error but would really appreciate some advice on how to tackle this as these are by far the most expensive panels and I'm not sure where to start.
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  10. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    They will need a little bit of persuasion. There are various ways to do it.

    I got the arch fitting nicely at the back checking the gap between it and the door and then tacked it to the B pillar. You’ll then need to use a series of jacks to push the rest into place. I used a trolley jack in the middle to hold the arch against the wheel tub, and then a scissor jack between the chassis rail and the rear of the step to push it out. I then clamped the front of the arch to the A pillar and tacked it in place there.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  11. Thanks James, I didn't expect the arch to be so far out but now I know this is normal I'll get to work with the jacks. Really appreciate your advice.
     
  12. I think you have to cut part off the flange back where it comes of that triangular box section on the inside of the wheel arch. It’s too wide and fouls on the bulkhead behind it.
     
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  13. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    As well as removing the extra bit Orwell describes, pukka genuine Brazil arch fitting goes like this...
    The floor is a different contour and about 10-12mm higher in a Brazillian Bay. When you offer the arch up to a German bay it looks like this.
    [​IMG]

    When you get the top back corner in place it seems like there is too much tub.
    [​IMG]

    The difference is the inner step. To demonstrate, here is a whole German step upright.
    [​IMG]

    And here it is laying inside a VW Brazil arch. Note the left end is being held up by the outer part of the grey arch.. The main floor lines should be parallel, the photo makes it look less different than it is...metal thickness.
    [​IMG]

    If you make your step upright the same shape and height as the original, the arch falls into place...more or less. I had a photo with lines drawn on it somewhere...
     
    Last edited: Sep 3, 2020
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    You'll get thete, they are great arches.
    Here's one fitted after adjusting the step.
    [​IMG]
     
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  15. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    I chopped off the top of the step lip , trimmed the step as needed and then re-welded the lip back in:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
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  16. I used the Brazilian arch and I had to cut away this section. As well, the Brazilian VW arch supposedly has a taller step. I didn’t notice this as it looked quite close. It seemed to line up quite well and even aligned with the witness marks where the old one was but starts misbehaving when you weld it no matter how many clamps, mole grips whatever you secure it with. I ended up getting too much tub from the original metal and hammered to shrink it a little as I welded along. The top back corner along the b pillar pulled away a little as there is no way to weld it. I ended opening up the triangle box and using a blunt chisel to hammer the flange closer to the b pillar and secure it with a few fat spot welds. Overall it turned out well but getting it all to line up...Good times.
     
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  17. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Proved my point - too much tub.^
    Cut the step and everything falls into place.

    So...I was thinking how many of these have I fitted. 6 of my own, so must be at least 20 all in.
     
    bagpus likes this.
  18. Inspiring work mate. Chapeau!
     
    bagpus likes this.
  19. Great information, advice and pictures Zedders, thanks very much.
     
  20. Orwell, top advice- thanks
     

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