Do they have electric pumps on them? The good news is the little micro switch conversion means the original action of pulling the wiper stalk now successfully operates the electric washers
Better than that! I think they originally had two pumps, one for the windscreen, one for the headlights. If you can find one, it may have an original pump fitted down by the totem pole. Mine was missing, but the outlet was there. You really need to fit a delay wipe relay, BTW. Fixed interval will do. Now's the time! Do it!
revised switch arrangement.. activated by the cut down stem of a used rivet in the existing hole.. the other microswitch hit the steering column one way or shorted on the housing the other... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Bloody magic is right. The gauge now reads empty at empty and full at full - don't think I've ever had one do that! Really liked the ability to tweak it and get the needle to line up dead on. Stuck it on the back of the speedo where there was more space.
The true test will be when you fill it up with gas. 10 litres (more or less) should bring you to the top of the red zone on the gauge.
Hi Mark I bought one from this seller about two months ago it fits well and everything works. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/173054509105 Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
'Tis indeed. Nothing magic. They do seem to improve things if the stock regulator (especially the vibrator type) are getting a bit tired, although I suspect Mark's had gone a bit dolally anyway. <edit> 5.6V does seem to be the magic number.
Spark plugs. Had a quick look at a couple to see what colour they are as it's running too rich. Plug #2 is an NGK BP6ES, and #4 is a BP5E. Bearing in mind I've got flat top pistons I thought they should be the B6ES as the middle electrode doesn't protrude as much. So the upshot is I need a set of plugs but not sure which is best the 5 or the 6, and the B or the BP. Please would somebody enlighten me? Edit: 2056 cc type 4
I use the Bosch WR7CC because a) that's what the PO used and b) it seems to be what the usual suspects sell for a 1700 to 2000 Type4. Probably no help to you, but I may learn something here
1 thing for sure is no spark plug can possibly hit the pistons on a type-4, the angle wouldn't allow it even if it stuck out an inch into the chamber. Go a stock heat stock nose plug IMO, though I am having thoughts about trying a longer one for my big pistons.
Now you say it, was a daft question. I was thinking of the 1600tp type 1 in my buggy, where I believe the nonprotruding type is needed? You're dead right, doesn't matter at all in a type4 if the electrode protrudes. Anyway for interest I thought I'd get a spare head out and screw a BPR6ES in it as I had one out (spare lawn mower plug is the same as a type 4 ) to see what it looked like. So I would say definitely the protruding P type is essential for a type 4 in fact. It's good learning this stuff.