Techenders virtual campout 24th-26th April

That's the earth, clean them up and put a new one if needed. Check and clean your battery earth as well

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Don't hit that end cap, it has a bush either in it or just below. If you must, tap main body or the solenoid gently with something hard. Short, sharp shock as they say.

 

I’m going to say this even if it’s obvious - disconnect the battery first or there’s great potential for fireworks and welding spanners under there.
Also be careful with the solenoid connections, some penetrant might be advisable - although yours don’t look too corroded as the solenoid may have been replaced by the look of it. When I undid mine the stud turned with the nut cracking the Bakelite insulation.


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I’m actually glad you warned me of that! I’d have forgotten. Thanks.


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Depends on how we interpret Thwack
When mine would stick I used a largeish adjustable spanner so the Thwack would be more of a sharpish blow than a thud if that makes sense ? Always fired up then,
Hopefully I've sorted mine out, replaced the solenoid which did have a lot of rusty old gunk in it , also plenty of grease in the bush in the bell housing

 

After my starter gave up, I spent the extra a bought one that doesn't need the starter bush in the bell housing.

In 'gave up' meaning it became sticky and I took it apart and couldn't put it back together again!

 

Back to basics , hoping you`ve cleaned up the earth - that certainly won`t be helping .... !

 

I used to "thwack" mine with a large screwdriver handle if shorting it with the other end didn't work.

 

I’m going to head underneath and have a bit of a clean up before any “thwacking” takes place (now that i’ve been informed where and where not to ).
With both batteries completely removed am I safe from fireworks and welded spanners?
I assume I will be, but i’m getting used to not trusting my assumptions.


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Yep should be ok
I had to give my old one a sharp tap with a large spanner in the middle of the casing - worked every time until I got round to replacing it.

 

My ultimate thwack technique was on a Renault 20 i coaxed along for a few years in the late `80s .
Nine times out of ten i had to `address` the starter motor with a lump hammer which was great when there was someone there holding the key ....
When i was on my own things got a bit silly. I had a long bolt which i lodged between the steering wheel and held the key in `start` , i then went around the front , bashed the motor which engaged and started the engine - bonkers now but character building is how i like to see it

 

So, that took an hour to safely get off, but the bolt is saved so worth it.
Other side not corroded so easier to undo but a pain (literally) to access.

Think I might aswell get a new strap. Not seeing any for sale that are insulated like mine. Does that matter?

Guessing this shouldn’t have just fallen out of its connector as I brushed past it! Is that the Oil Temperature Switch?
Cheers guys. Might just order the cable and a fresh pair of nuts (no jokes ).

Oh, and the Starter Motor...

Wasn’t too bad. A lot of Copper Grease - is that stuff conductive?


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Thinking of ordering this...if there are no objections to it being round rather than flat brading?

Read that Copper Slip is not conductive, so Vaseline is touted as a substance to use to guard against corrosion.


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Braded are more flexible which is better in the long run and the sleeve traps water so where it is wouldn't be good...in the long term.
Flat or round? Maybe the flat are more flexible but I wouldn't worry personally.

What's the betting nobody much has a tool for flat crinps but everyone who crimps cables has a round one.