Ok, hands up who has a Westfalia to bar. Specifically the 321-125 version with the side plates. Question time for a wet and windy Saturday afternoon. How exactly are the side plates bolted to the chassis? I appreciate I need to drill some holes, which may prove easier said than done due to no room to get a drill on there. The manual shows the bolt on hole "c" as m10 x 25 with a nut, but there is no way a 25 mm long bolt will pass through the chassis rails, more like 65mm required. The top hole "a" dissapears into the box section behind the rear valance, so there is no way a nut can be atttached, none is shown in the documentation so what does it screw into, is it a self tapper? Cheers Steve
You could (obviously) buy some longer bolts - Kays fasteners on fleaBay will sell you some. It is a pain drilling through the chassis rails. Bit of a nightmare doing much the same for my oil filter head. You can only really drill from the engine side. Or...just leave off the side bolts? My Westy-style towbar is only attached by the upward-pointing bolts (but there are three of them).
I only have 2 lower holes, I think this is normal for the 312-125, its bolted up nice and tight bit just not "correct". I have 12.9 hts bolts long enough to go through, I was just wondering if they expected a bigger hole on the inside of the chassis so the nut sits in the frame, hence the shorter screw defined. Its the rearmost hole thats got me really head scratching, I could fit a riv-nut... I was interested to see what a proper job was like before I go and lie in a puddle and do something I regret. Cheers
From memory, there is a big (50mm?) hole punched in the LH chassis rail, if that’s what you mean. Don’t know what it’s for. You could just use a shorter bolt in that?
Grade 12.9 is as quoted in the Westfalia pdf instructions Every one else uses 8.8, but thought it best to "follow the instructions". Fairly sure ther are no big holes punched in my rear chassis rails (1976 model year), but that would make sense for the bolt lenght qouted. Guess I'll go all the way through with the long bolts. Just the rear most ones to figure out...
When you tow start a Transit flatbed truck with your towbar, or somebody rams (Audi or Vauxhall Corsa in my case) you you will appreciate having bolts that dont stretch as easily or shear under load so you can still remove and replace them .. go 12.9. 8.8 are cheese metal.
it’s what Porsche quote for caliper bolts 8.8 bolts are not cheese metal . Tensile strength is the measurement of pulling the bolt apart , in this case the bolts are in shear ...
There are on mine as that’s how I bolted the side flanges on my tow bar Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Weird, definitely dont have them. Doesnt look welded up either. Guess I'll be drilling some holes if it ever stops raining. Yay!
you gotta get your head in the engine bay to see them, they are inside the rail , got a picture of your rails , you may need to pull the tinware to see them
Hmm, tinware pulled... holes missing. Fortunately I had a bag of holes left over. One side done, the other is a bit more restricted, need to switch to a smaller tool. Still need to drill & fit riv-nuts for the rearmost bolts. Oh, and the screws should be 10.9 not 12.9. Must be old age effecting my memory. Cheers